This is great! So you etched the numbers and letters first and then burned in powder coating on a second pass with the laser?
I just got a JTECH 7W laser for my birthday, excited to start learning more about it! Thanks for the inspiration!
Are those ceramic tiles Eric?
Nice Work, Steve
https://www.instagram.com/p/C8alIJvyqw4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
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Thanks @KevBarn14 - I’m honored to be the Hump Day Highlight!
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Yes they are Ed.
I used the Norton process. I had quite a few failures, but finally dialed it into this point.
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Me too…I’ve had good luck with Rustoleum Gloss White spray paint and Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3 White Primer spray paint on white ceramic tiles. Made this for the front door. Solicitors mostly ignore it (or they can’t read), but once in a while I get a Ring video where someone is about to push the doorbell, and then they stop and walk away 
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That’s correct. First engraving just enough to fill in powder coat. Use a credit card or something to smooth into gaps. After that raise the laser up a bit. 1/2 in to an 1 in and rerun (no air assist) You will need to play around with the power and speed. Keep your power army 100% and slow down the speed. I have a jtech 14 and 44 w so my settings are different. Good luck.
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This is great, thank you for sharing!
I’ve been using the Rustoeium Blossom White.
You should go out and congratulate those people.
I have an appointment with my doctor tomorrow so I made this to bribe him into giving me good news.
I made a stupid mistake when aligning the stock on the machine. I did not use my normal method, took a shot cut and it bit me. Funny thing is that I didn’t notice it until I was putting the lacquer coats on. Hopefully he won’t notice.
I did have to make lemonade out of lemons. My original design had the letters raised. I cut it that way but during one of the latter tool paths a portion of one of the letters broke off. So, I created a new set of toolpaths to flatten them all down and then vcarve them.
It is 4"x12" maple. I put keyhole slots on the back. Hopefully he likes it enough to give me some referrals.
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I present you a humble panel. A simulated shaker panel. This humble panel was cut on my CNC… Which means I am now expected to cut out cabinets for our kitchen renovation.
So here is to my panel and the start of a giant project that I’m not sure I can pull off.
In all seriousness, I’m very confident in the cabinet construction, but the painting is where I am seriously doubtful.
I will also probably go with something more cool as my door and drawer faces. But this is kind of the proof that the idea is feasible.
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When I built out my doors in my house I used short knap rollers and got beautiful results. I cut in around the panel with a good brush. Then used the short knap roller to get a nice smooth finish.
If you use a brush then you can use Flotrol to get your paint to flow well and not leave brush marks behind. So a short knap roller and the best quality brush you can get will help but frankly a spray finish will give you the best with no brush marks.
Spraying can be done with an HVLP system. You can also go to Harbor Freight and get their $25.00 gravity feed sprayer. I recently did a rebuild of a 1963 Delta Drill Press and used a cheap HVLP gun from HF and it came out perfect. I was spraying oil based paint that was quite thick. The beauty of paying such a low price is after the project is over you can just toss the gun and you wont feel bad about it.
Here is a picture of the drill press and the stand I built and also painted with the HVLP spray gun.
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Brave soul ! All the best.
I am going to buy RTA components, no guts.
Typical procedure at work for mdf doors is sand with 150, making sure to get the edges well, break the sharp corners for paint adhesion, spray with primer, sand with a R/O and sanding sponge using 220 till it’s almost gone, filling any defects, prime again, sand with 320 till you’ve built up a good layer of dust, then two coats of post-catalysed tinted lacquer. A properly sanded door makes for a great finish. We usually cut out the center recessed area and then fit a 1/4" panel from the front, which gives a smoother finish than if you were to cut out a pocket, but it requires more material and some gluing. Sanding the inner pocket can damage the profile around it, so take care to keep lines crisp. Have fun!
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My son made a bed for his son Mason that looks like a CATEPILLAR front-end loader. He asked if I could make a badge with Mason’s name on it to go on the headboard. It’s made from 4.5"Wx3/4" thick PVC trim board. This stuff cuts like soft butter. I still have a little cleanup work to do yet but it is looking fairly good.
Sorry guys. I finally figured how to place this post where it belongs.
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Haha, reminds me of a project I finished recently. But the only thing I cut on my HDM was a plug for the door so I could install a dummy door lever.
The plug:
The cabinets;
Guys HVLP recommendation is right on. I purchased a Fuji SemiPro 4 or 5 years ago and I’ve lost count oh the projects I’ve used it for.
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second test cut on my new 5 pro. test holes for making a pvc fence system with some 1/2" conduit I had lying around. 10.75mm pocket is the winner
it appears spacing for the slats is 102.5mm, but trying to find confirmation on that
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Just a guess, but I expect 4" which is 101.6mm