Not answering for the original poster but when you use deep pour epoxy the colorants tend to settle to the bottom. For deep pour epoxy it takes a long time to setup so the heavy colorants settle. You have to keep checking the epoxy for it starting to gel. Then you stir the epoxy and get the color back and you get the swirl patterns.
Here is an example of a river table that the color dropped to the bottom and I got the color stirred just in time for the epoxy to set so the color does not drop to the bottom.
I like both of your projects. The wall art has been an interest of mine lately. A few weeks ago I made some 3d tumbling blocks and a few geometric patterns. But your wall sculpture is very nice. What I see is a lot of work and organization to get your project finished and hung.
Now to mill some custom grips for that beast. I have some hardwood ones on my Inception Diamondback cocker that never got the playtime it deserved before I hung it up.
A custom fixture for a piece I am making. Sort of like a buck a suppose.
Tool deflection with the 1/8” single flute was actually pretty significant at full depth. That was pretty aggressive roughing, critical dimensions were out by a quarter millimeter before the finishing ops cleaned them up.
After the finishing pass I’m dead nuts on, at least to the scale on my calipers. Good enough for the girls I go out with (which is to say, it’s ~perfect. The wife has high standards )
This fixture is overkill for sure, there’s no need to use 8 hold down points and I probably never will.
But if there’s one thing I’ve learned about fixturing over the years, it’s that the value of optionality shouldn’t be ignored. Especially if you’re playing Tetris with multiple fixtures in a small work envelope.
The precision shoulder on the bolts allows for locating and ensures the fixture is in line with the axis of travel.
The center bore is great for probing to set work origin (and might be drilled all the way through to act as a vacuum chuck. Not much surface area but the cutting is pretty light so maybe it’ll work )
I also put some nice chamfers on everything. Separates us from the animals.
Project time! This is by far the most complicated thing I’ve made on my Shapeoko 5 Pro and it took like 6 months to design (across evenings and weekends). It’s a place to hang my keys that’s styled like a piano, and with a latching mechanism within each note.
If you’re interested in the details, I make videos of each of my projects and this is no exception! https://youtu.be/VGve1ukdu2w
I am very proud of it but also know there is a lot of room for improvement. The base is made from cherry, walnut and maple, whilst the mechanism is machined acetal. The little hooks where you put your keys are made from brass.
Let me know what you think, and thanks to everyone who shares their projects on here - great for inspiration!
I’ve stayed out of the shop for about a year. . . then I needed something
I’ve started playing clarinet after finding one in a thrift shop for $41. But my old hands are not only arthritic, they’re somewhat small. In order to play beyond the lower octave you have to use the register key which involves keeping your thumb over a hole while simultaneously using it to depress a key. With this clarinet the space between the hole and key is too much to muster for me.
The tape may be inelegant but allows for revisions and, since this in on the underside of the instrument, won’t be seen when I finally appear at Carnegie Hall.
Very resourceful and cool use of the machine! Hope you enjoy playing your modified clarinet I used to play clarinet but moved onto sax as it’s much less fiddly (and much easier too).
In my quest to get my new machine setup and fully useable I cut some inserts for my toolbox drawers.
A couple of years ago for the older machine I
Used the foam from Rockler and it seemed to cut ok then. I don’t know what I really did different this time but using the piece of that I had left hanging around it just sucked. The foam mushes out of the way of the bit and doesn’t cut cleanly.
I thought about sandwiching it with thin plywood and then thought about just using MDF. In the end, I decided to use those 1” thick 24x24 pieces of rigid insulation foam. It cut very cleanly.
Now I need to find that damn tape measure.
I still have some organization to do on the clamps but at least I can use the machine now without rummaging through boxes.
I haven’t cut anything in a while, because well life as yall know. However I made this to commemorate my department heads last deployment before going to the reserve forces! 326days on the USS Ford!
(which is to say, it’s ~perfect. The wife has high standards 
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I used to play clarinet but moved onto sax as it’s much less fiddly (and much easier too).
