In progress but this was a big item. I for see lots of cuts like this for those getting the 5 
Chunk of mdf was 66" x 34", two operations, end stops on the left with a mark. first op was Zero back left, second was rezerod to the same mark but with a front left zero this time.
paint is drying, but its for a new wall sign. will assemble later today
Uh, did you proofread? 
Hey, that looks good!
I cut those out of 3/4" oak,
glued 5 of them together, spent way too much time sanding,
carved recesses in the back for hidden supports,
and finally crossed ONE item off the honey do list:
Now, the big question is what to do with all 10 inner parts…maybe 10 charcuterie boards customized with friends and family names to give away for Xmas
Picture frames?
You could do multiple 4x5, 4x6 (or other standard size photo rectangles) windows, or even one wide window for a panorama photo (because panoramas are somewhat awkward to show).
However, then comes the, ‘well, now I need to buy and cut clear acrylic’, so my suggestion may not be so great after all.
Keep making smaller versions that nest until you are really, really tired of sanding?
I am about to start on a similar project but shaped like a 32 inch diameter hoop, ~2 inches tall. Is it possible to glue up the uncut pieces first and then cut or would that be a bad idea?
It happens to be what I pondered while I was sanding (and cursing). Those shelves are 3.5" deep though, it would have taken a reaaaaally long reach endmill to profile cut a stack of glued up pieces. This could go into the guiness book of records for “extreme slotting” I guess 
I would encourage this path:
Except, you’re not a beginner @Julien!
I was actually cutting almost the exact same design yesterday, except I made a box out of it (because I have a box fetish. Don’t judge)
I wonder how it would look with some epoxy filled into the surface pattern,
Check out this post:
Beautiful! I like boxes too. What v bit did you use? The cuts look deeper. I used a 90 degree but just got a 30 degree in the mail so hoping the grooves will cut a bit deeper.
I do also want to play with an epoxy inlay and\or spray painting black or something.
I believe that was a v-60 and you are correct, the v30 will be even deeper. The basic math is easy with a 90 degree bit: Since v-carve works using the width between your lines, the 90 degree bit will always go half as deep as the width between your lines (Hooray for geometry). Since, v60 and v30 are narrower, the bit will go deeper to make the same cut - I know there is math to calculate v60 and v30 depth, but I am crap at math.
Hey John missed you on YouTube lately. Come on back.
I believe the math would be like tan(theta/2)=(x/2)/y where x is the distance between lines, theta is the angle and y is the depth. So to get the depth y=x/2tan(theta/2)
For 90 degrees y=x/2, for 60 degrees y=x/1.1547, and for 30 degrees y=x/0.5359
So I guess once you get to 30 degrees it’s actually deeper than it is wide while 60 degrees it’s pretty close to as deep as it is wide. Interesting!
Is the water epoxy the same elevation from one side of the map to the other, or did you tilt the map during pouring so that the elevation of the water is proportional to the elevation of the land? Maybe this is negligible because of the scaling.
The 7 black HDPE parts are all cut on our SO4 Pro at work and 5 copies of these were made. The movement translation items were ordered and the HDPE parts made to fit the needs of the professor, doctors, and Phd candidates. They will end up in an experimental lab here at the university… because science!
Designed a new cribbage board for a friend. This is black walnut live edge. The small cover on the right is for the pegs and will be held in place by magnets like I usually do. Just asked them if they want something laser engraved on the top as well. I will post another picture once the finish has been applied and it is truly done but I was pretty happy with how it is coming along so far.
It looks interesting but what is it used for?
