I’ve read most of the threads here, but there seems to be a fan for every type. Maybe we need some kind of characterization comparison (any YouTubers want to take this on?). At any rate, the threads are old (and closed), so I thought starting another would be OK.
My criteria:
Sticks well, even for smaller parts. For me, that’s to the MDF spoilboard and to my solid wood parts.
Has a consistent thickness so that you can avoid cutting into it
The backing isn’t hard to peel off
I don’t like the blue tape/cyno glue method as I find it harder to precisely locate parts, the thickness varies, and if you do cut into it, your bits get really gummed up.
I’ve used a cloth-based double-stick tape (XFasten or Hippie Crafter brand?) but the backing is really hard to peel off, it’s impossible to cut with scissors (and gums up the scissors), and it’s pretty thick. I’m concerned that the paper-backed versions don’t stick as well.
Also, in relation to thickness, my MO is to set zero on the splilboard top surface. What’s the best way to “add” in the thickness of the tape, other than a bunch of trial and error? I mean, I could stick the BitZero to the bed, zero Z, remove the BitZero, then Jog to Z-Zero and use feeler gauges, but I’m assuming there’s a better way.
I use two methods to clamp my projects. Cam clamps and painters tape and super glue. I have never had either method fail. I prefer painters tape if I am cutting out things inside a bigger piece because I dont need tabs. I find tabs useful but a pain to remove. So if I can avoid tabs I do. The cam clamps work on my SO3 with a 1/4" threaded tee nut spoilboard. Additionally I have an L fence that pretty much stays on my spoilboard to I can square up material. If required I remove the L fence once the material is secured so I dont cut into my L bracket.
Painters tape and super glue work very well for me. I use 2 sided pressure sensitive tape for turning at times and have used carpet tape for regular woodworking tasks but both leave residue behind that will come off with mineral spirits.
I do the same as Cullen. I use XFasten when I can’t use clamps to hold material. To avoid cutting into it you can set your max depth to t+.2mm. When I do have to clean the tape from an endmill I use brakleen and a stiff brush or rag.
So, I checked, and I was/am using the XFasten, but not too happy:
Can’t cut with most scissors, and those that can get gummed up on first cut
If the bit mills it, the bit is gummed up and won’t cut right until cleaned
It’s pretty thick, so you have to know how much to compensate for to not cut into it, but I’ve found that even a 0.3mm offset sometimes isn’t enough, other times leaves an onion skin (the latter is OK).
But, it does seem to stick well enough and not too bad on not leaving residue.
I stick two layers of blue tape to the spoil board, then use the BitZero atop the tape to set the Z-zero - works wonderfully especially if I’ve just surfaced my bed. Keeps the bit from chewing throuh tape for the most part. I haven’t had much issue with blue tape gumming up bits… Nothing a little spritz with rubbing alcohol & a cloth readily remove.
I only peel the backing off on the first use from a roll.
Pull out the amount of tape you need & stick it down leaving the backing on.
pull the backing back, and use a knife to cut just the tape.
Now you have a long piece of loose backing hanging off the roll.
Rip it off just a bit longer than the tape.
Now you have a loose piece of backing to grab for the rest of the roll.
Blue painters tape and ca glue for me. It does sometimes gum up the bits and transfer residue to your project but it can be minimized by using less glue and ca glue activator to help cure it. Lay the tape down to the spoil board, thin bead of glue, and then match the tape up to the work piece and spray the work piece with the activator. Carefully line up the tape and press down and let sit for a couple minutes.
I sometimes use the amazon xfasten tape for parts I don’t plan on cutting through as it does a fairly good job. The adhesive is strong and will sometimes leave marks or peel some wood fibers along with it.
Put the tape on the part that doesn’t matter, like the spoilboard. Or lift the end of the tape away from the piece to cut it. I did say, “…cut JUST the tape.”
Or keep doing it the slower, more difficult way??
Lifting the tape away from the piece to cut it is virtually impossible to do cleanly. The tape without backing (as you instructed) sticks to scissors and bunches up on itself, not to mention gums up the scissors.
As for cut JUST the tape when it’s stuck down, that’s a skill I don’t have. I either end up not cutting deep enough and the tape pulls and gets uneven, or I’ve cut into the workpiece.
For some pieces, sticking to the spoilboard and cutting on there is a possibility, but sometimes that’s not so practical.
I’m surprised that there’s nothing better than the XFasten, except for some the blue tape/cyno glue.
I use this cheap IPG 2 way tape from the local hardware store. I have to pry it off.
I intentionally use less, small pieces if it’s more fragile material.
