Bitzero worth it or not

I just want to ask the question. Is the bitzero worth it or should i just keep self zeroing?

It’s a convenience feature, rather than unlocking new capabilities like a BitSetter.

I’m relatively new to CNC, so I like it. It provides consistency. That said, most of my work doesn’t need accurate X-Y zeroing, so I mostly use it for Z.

If you’re not unhappy with your current method, then the BitZero may leave you underwhelmed, in the “Not much different from the way I used to do it” sense. If you find the current method fiddley, then the BitZero may give a more consistent approach that you like.

So, really we can’t tell you if it’s worth it, it depends on what you would value from it.

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Im looking to save time and be more consistent. So it sound like it may be beneficial

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Bit Setter is a must :slight_smile: it saves lots of time.
Bit Zero. I have a V2 and some times I use it but I have more faith in setting it up myself as I see it while the Bit Zero is “I hope it got it right”
Once the Z ended up below the deck, I have no idea how that can happen. but after that I went back to seeing is believing :slight_smile: The manual method just seems to make me feel better :slight_smile:
When I do use the Bit Zero I worry too much and go back and double check, So to me it seems to take longer.

I guess it is just what works for you :slight_smile:

For Me, the X and Y are normally not critical, so eyeballing those works for me. The Z on the other hand needs to be near perfect. If you have a 3D printer then you know how to use a piece of paper to get the nozzle clearance. I do something similar on my CNC. I have boxes of business cards left over. I lower the bit down while wiggling the business card around, when it just starts to pinch it I stop. I know the thickness of the card, so I just type that number into Z Zero as the offset. Perfect and I didn’t rub the bit on my project or waste board :slight_smile:

What ever works for you :slight_smile:

I use mine a lot it’s very helpful if you change bits it makes sure the height is the same for every new bet you stole. Otherwise you’re gonna have a little lines in the bottom of your cuts

I do actually prefer the old paper trick for setting the Z height the first time. I usually set my Z height near the center of the project. Doing it this way way it splits possible unlevel errors in half if that makes sense

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As others stated it is a nice to have and not required. I have a v1 and like StephenCox stated I use it about 50% of the time. I most use the center so I seldom do the X and Y on the corner. However I also use the bottom for most of my projects to keep from cutting through a project and making a mess of my spoilboard. So it is very easy to use the BitZero to set your zero.

So when I start up my Shapeoko for a new project to cut I put a vee bit in the router when prompted. I let the machine initialize and then jog and set the center X and Y and then use the BitZero after using a rapid position to a space not used on the spoilboard.

Everyone works differently so for some the BitZero is a must have. For me and some others I can take it or leave it. I have seen the V2 and do not care for using the rod. You can still use a bit but either tool you use the BitZero works well.

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@Jdvoreh This is most like my experience. I have the original BitZero and my experience with it is that I’m far more accurate using the “trap the paper” and “touch the corner” method. I have probed three times with the bit zero without moving it and got three different sets of zeroes! At that point, I do it manually and that’s it. My BitZero sits unused…a waste of money for me.

BitSetter, on the other hand, I find to be worth EVERY penny. It’s the most convenient tool in the arsenal — and, it helps when setting zeroes…in that you can zero with a thin bit (1/16", for example) and then use the bitsetter to change tools — it’s pretty fantastic. The only downside of the BitSetter, as I see it, is that you sometimes will want to turn it off - when using only one tool for jobs that you want to run multiple times on different pieces of material – then the overhead of the start up process of the BitSetter is a bit of a drag. The only other negative - and it’s not a BitSetter issue, it’s a CM issue…is that CM has been written to ask a bunch of worthless questions (designed to protect certain people from themselves) that require you to click multiple times when you enable the BitSetter. It slows you down and forces your hands to the mouse multiple times for no gain for most people. We’ve asked to be able to turn those messages off, but that’s not in the cards, yet.

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Interesting, One day I also took several touch readings and recorded them. They where close ish but I could not get the same numbers twice. Mind you, the project I had loaded at the time may not have made for a perfect test. :slight_smile: It does not get much use any more as the manual way just makes more sense in my small world. :slight_smile:
FYI I live in Canada, I ordered it as a separate purchase and I paid all kinds of additions fees on it, taxes, exchange, FedEx admin fee, brokerage. :frowning: stinking couriers :slight_smile:
However it looks very pretty on the machine with the glowing logo :slight_smile:

I like the BitZero enough every Shapeoko I’ve had, has had one. I get great consistency, but I ALWAYS use the 1/4" pin and press it slightly into the corner.

I did 50 cycles one time and all were within 0.002" of each other according to the machine coordinates.

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That’s awesome. Yep I use the 1/4" probe too. As I said, my test was not ideal conditions so don’t use that as fact . :slight_smile: For me it is just easier for my brain to trust the manual way at this point. My point is whatever work flow works for you is the best :slight_smile: I am not sure if it speeds up the work flow though. And I am sure that all depends on what you are setting up.

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Agreed. The best way is what gets the job done for ya. :slight_smile:

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I made my own for cheap. Check this out
Mine only does Z Axis but it works for me and that’s all I need

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Quick question about Bitzero V2. How does it know if the 0.25" or the 0.125" pin is in the router?

It doesn’t. It registers both sides of the pocket, and uses the average to set zero.

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Thank you, appreciate the reply!

It works the same way as BML’s comment for z axis. It is a known height and is used as an offset and Steve.Mc’s comment is for x and y coordinate finding the center and using that known offset.

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I bought it when I got my shapeoko pro, as I was (and still am somewhat) new to CNC. I found that the bit moves it while zeroing, which makes its value suspect. I much prefer to zero to a corner, trap piece of paper for the Z axis, and I’m away, no fuss. If I were to do it all again, I would choose not to purchase it.

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It should be possible to drape the cord in such a way that things don’t move — if need be, secure in place w/ a bit of painter’s tape.

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OK…but if I’m going to take the time to tape it down - and worry that I do it right - I may as well just trap a piece of paper and touch the corner (or center mark) with a 1/16" bit…no?

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I hear what you are saying Gary. I too get inpatient and want to make chips fly. Over the years I have lost a few tools and damaged a few work pieces due to incorrect step value while trying to pinch that paper. Now that I’m paying for tools, I take the time to use the tools designed to save my cutter and work piece. How much is an extra 2 minutes of my time compared to the 1/16" end mill and that nice chunk of black walnut?