Curing my OCD and trimming the shapeoko

the side plates will hit the rear mount before any contact to the proximity?

fair point my intial thought was that before i dang my machine on solid parts
i loose an proximty switch. but designed an offset version as well with set back switch. the major problem with the setback is that the mounting holes intersect if you want to keep stock mounting holes.

made V 1.1 with set back switch because the loosing of working area isnt that nice you are right on that. should be printed out when im back home and im testing if i can it assemble that way i think.

keep you updated

2 Likes

Took your addition in account V1.1. 1.3 is on the printer right now. Redefining small things and then should be final.

6 Likes

1.1.3 is Final fits like a glove. rest of the files will be published on sat/sun

Endstop_Y_1.3.stl (125.3 KB)

4 Likes

Gotta love 3D printing!

If you wouldn’t mind posting the Fusion files too, that would be appreciated.

3 Likes

A brief update. Everything coming together.

Really proud of the drag chain. I bought a igus chain and they provide all their chains as 3d files. I have to rout the motor cables out on the control box and took one file of their page enlarged it and put a throughout in it so I could take the rest and rout it out of the machine without changing it to a different drag chain or cable Channel what so ever

6 Likes

Hi Guys,

All files and 3d Parts online on Thingiverse with instructions.

Cheers

14 Likes

Thanks for sharing! Next time I need to mess with my controller, I’ll print that enclosure. The stock one is a major pain in the neck whenever there is a need to go and plug something new (which is not everyday, but still)

3 Likes

First - Thank you for taking the time to make and post everything to help out your fellow enthusiasts.

I went to thingverse to download the prox/limit switch mounts but I dont see one for X carriage?

I only see one for Z and Y or am I just being blinded by an unfamiliar site process?

Please advise.

Hey Rafi,

No you are right there is no file. i just taped two holes in the metal plate and screwed the X one on. + some adhesive backing

1 Like

Finished up the electronic cabinet after a while now.

Inserted heatserts to securely lock my screws and connected and wired all the limit switches and routed all cables properly. So electronic done :heavy_check_mark:.

Still waiting for the aluminium baseplate…

Next thing is to fill the aluminium beams with Epoxy sand mixture. And then assembling the new feet with dampening pads.



8 Likes

Purchase link for the feet and damping pads?

1 Like

Unfortunately all in german…It’s a shop for aluminium extrusion and it’s accessories so should be sourcable somewhere else as well.

The nice thing is that you can choose between different damper and plate sizes :heart:

https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Gelenkfuss-Reihe-10-PA-Gewindestange-mit-Kugel-10mm-M5X20-Schluesselweite-10-Teller-40mm-mit-Anti-Slip-Platte-40-d385

1 Like

Is OCD ever really cured?

1 Like

Okay no further updates but my first alloy cut with the actual state (◍•ᴗ•◍):heart:

The new damping feet help a lot and the machine sits really sturdy…

7 Likes

How do the dampening feet help? Do they level the bed better? Reduce chatter?

Im comparing to the original plastic ones with this you got more surface contact to the ground , the dampening pads help to reduce chatter and the spherical head helps tho level out the Machine.

(But thats just my first impression) im preparing a test set up for my upgrades measuring amplitude with sand/epoxy infill and the feet.

1 Like

thicc boy is coming

all holes are so designed that they are 0,2 mm undersized and i can get the perfect fit for my inserts

1 Like

Especially my wife want to thank carbide 3d :joy::joy::joy:

Hdz , bitsetter and hd nuts arrived :heart:

7 Likes

This topic was automatically closed 30 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.