drilled 4000 holes in my Baseplate and managed to crack one tap… Now I have 4 M8 holes like it was planned
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Before i assembled the beam plates and the Baseplate I added some butyl tape.
I don’t know if that is common in the us but in German it’s called like so it’s heavily vibration damping and long term elastic.
My goal is to decouple the vibration of these parts a bit. But we will so how it performs.
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Cool idea! If it works I’m going to have to give it a try on my next upgrade spree!
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Hey guys due to recent upgrade to the HDZ I’ve had to adapt the drag chain holder and the home/limit switch holder.
limit switch holder fits nicely around the rail and secures in place with one screw. the cable can be fit through the hole including plug.
(please note the design was taken from the actual HDZ model i guess dimensions may vary )
Here are the design adaptions:
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Awesome, I need a better mount for my drag chain. Do you have a picture of how you mounted it on?
Thanks for sharing this!
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@Sinned you are ruining my life, stop posting. Just kidding, this is awesome, and I’m shamelessly copying a bunch of your stuff. I’ve already printed the drag chain mount for my new HDZ. Proximity switches, heat sinks and the 3D printed mounts are on their way. Keep up the cool work!
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Wow awesome work, my wife and wallet is gonna really love this.
Step 1: buy 3d printer…
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Do that!
Best move I made in my maker life in recent years (after getting a Shapeoko, obviously 
)
Make sure to get a decent one because fighting against a 3D printer is infuriating, they always win.
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I’m open to suggestions, only brand I’ve really seen was an ender 3.
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You will find many good tips if you search the forum, but personally my 3D printing life got a lot more rewarding when I got the Prusa I3 mk3s.
I hear many people like their Ender too.
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From what I have read the Prusa just works. I have an Ender 3 and really like it, but I did mod it a bit with an aluminum extruder, heavier springs, and fan duct. It’s been really consistent with really nice prints after the mods.
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I have the Prusa Mk3, it pretty much “just works” it’s not quite iPhone grade but it’s pretty good.
If I was buying now, I’d buy the Prusa Mini unless I had a really good reason to need the extra few cm (0.39ths of an inch) of the Mk3 or the somewhat unreliable multi material option, which I’ve looked at and won’t buy until it’s redesigned and actually works properly.
The Mini is $349 so it’s getting down into Ender price range as well so for those who want to just plug it in, install the software and go, that’s where I’d go. For anyone who wants to fiddle, well, the Enders are quite upgradeable…
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Iv got two ender 5 because I’m not a big fan of the ender 3/prusa frames… But that’s just my opinion.
And you have to love 3d printing I am fusing milling and printing to get awesome result’s
Most reliable printers I’ve had so far I only can say positive things
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FWIW if you want a 3D printer that is as close to press and play as you can get then buy an Ultimaker… expensive as hell and not moddable but they just work, think less SO3 and more Festool. If you want a DIY, and want a really good printer look at the Voron2.4 I’m using that as the base for my Bio-printer. And if want something around SO3 levels of printer I’d echo the votes fo rthe Prusa or Ender.
This is half of the farm in my basement at the moment.
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Making some HDPE holder for my tools… Machine performs very very well with all that upgrades
I attached a video:
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I ordered the Prusa Mini a couple of weeks ago. I chose it because of the Prusa reputation. Unfortunately, Prusa is overwhelmed with orders and mine is projected to ship in September. That’s OK with me because I already have a 3D printer. Creality has a very similar printer on Kickstarter for $320, as I recall. I think it is the CR-6 SE. It looks great too, but the ship date is also September.
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Buddy of mine ordered a mini for me around the end of November and I got it like 3 weeks ago? So yeah, it might be a bit.
Printer is great though, setup was a breeze and hasn’t needed any tuning.
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