Actually, it can be difficult to fit a tool into an area of a similar size, and using a smaller tool is an expedient solution.
2 Likes
Jeff,
My advise about t he cap screws is not my original thought. Others on the forum pioneered the idea of replacing the set screws with cap screws. I merely passed on good advise from others. All of us stand on the shoulders of giants.
2 Likes
I tightened up my v-wheels and checked the step motor. I think they are ok. I adjusted some settings on both words. It was showing me that the #102 was too big for my BUN word, so I used the #112 again. I did use the #102 on Enzo both times. It does look better, but wow did it take longer! I think I will try again, not as deep of a cut though.
2 Likes
For the square I used the #102, it is the same size vertically and horizontally. It measures 2 7/8.
I did both using your settings and the #102 bit. I sanded the edges a little.
1 Like
I would suggest adding geometry and cutting as a pocket — where possible avoid slotting and add geometry and cut as a pocket (Making vacuum hose adapters and/or Adding geometry to cut as a pocket with a finishing pass ) and consider leaving a roughing clearance and taking a finishing pass.
I will check on those things hopefully tomorrow. I did adjust my v-wheels and I “think” they are ok now. I am cutting on birch plywood. I will be mostly using that and pine. I was told (on here) to cut on better wood and that’s why I have to sand a little. I am cutting pine and birch for a reason, all of this is for bunnies and those are safe materials for them to chew on. I’m not sure if I have a scrap of mdf, but I can check to practice on.
I really do appreciate the help. Sometimes I first read the comments and I’m like… WHAT? So then I have to really read it and take my time. This CNC stuff is so new to me. I do love this machine though! Lots of fun bunny things to make!
1 Like
if you hate the sanding of the edge… look into downcut endmills…
4 Likes
I recall when I began my journey into CNC hearing about compression bits. I thought hmmm, how does that work?
Compression bits are great for full depth - full thickness of your stock - finishing contour cuts. The idea is you cut your project slightly oversize, say 0.05 to 0.5 mm larger then you need, then use a compression bit to trim this excess off and consequently remove any fuzzies top and bottom.
3 Likes
I checked all the v-wheels and a couple needed tightened. Thank you for being so descriptive! I am going to see about picking up some mdf and maybe some hardwood tomorrow. Any specific kind I should look for?
I will look into compression bits too.
1 Like
I picked up some mdf today. I did this test cut of a circle and square as we talked about before with no offset. I did a contour path using a #102 1/8 bit.
stepover .118
depth per pass .05
plunge rate 29.5
feed rate 59
rpm 10000
max depth .03
1 Like
Should I cut is as a pocket path?
I’m sorry, what does step-down mean?
Does this mean max depth?
(since @jepho is temporarily busy having dinner 
)
It’s another word for “Depth per pass” as it appears in CC’s tool params window:
Yes, 2.54mm would be the “Max Depth (D)” field in CC
3 Likes
Thank you, I feel dumb with all my questions, but I want to get it right and understand.
2 Likes
I used the settings you listed. Thank you!
1 Like
Thank you for all the time you’ve been helping! How does my cut look? To me it looks great, but… 
1 Like
Thank you, I bookmarked that and will do some reading. I’ll keep working and learning! I’m sorry to say you will be seeing more of my posts I’m sure! lol
You have helped me a lot and I really appreciate it.
2 Likes
This is precisely what this community is here for, so by all means do ask any and all questions (and there is no such thing as a dumb question as far as I am concerned)
The only thing we will ask in return are pics of cute bunnies !
1 Like
