For those with a 4X4 Shapeoko 5 Pro - Table questions

[mekcio (Tom Kalisz)]

Please post pictures if possible, I need build table as well and i am looking for designs. Thank you.

[cnackers (Chris Nackers)]

Here are few. Because it’s 60” you will need a brace for the plywood edge, I decided to brace it all for the sake of it. Then the casters are just $25 from Amazon. Step on them to raise the table and release to drop it down.

I’m working on the bottom shelf and mounts for the VFD box and power box today.

[cnackers (Chris Nackers)]

[cnackers (Chris Nackers)]

VFD mounted in the corner, there isn’t much power cord left on the 4x4 to mount anywhere else. Would have been nice to have a couple extra feet.

I mounted the power box on the rear and I also made a 15ft power whip for the table to everything is plugged in to the table itself and then I have a 15ft heavy duty cord to plug in the shop somewhere.

Still need to tidy up the cords. I’ll tuck everything up under the table.

[Brew (Steven Middleton)]

Here’s my tablet. 62"x62"

[mekcio (Tom Kalisz)]

Thank you for sharing the pictures. Table looking very sturdy. Did you come up with the design yourself? I need build one for Shapeoko Pro CNC Router XXL so dimensions are smaller.

[gdon_2003 (Guy Donham)]

Tables and benches have been made from dimensional lumber for a long time. We all stand on the shoulders of those who came before us. So the design is not as critical as making the bench/stand not rack. The basic 4 corner post with some reinforcement is pretty standard. The posts in the middle can help the table from sagging but most people’s houses are made out of 2x4 16" apart holding up thousnds of pounds of weight. So dont sweat the design just look for ways to make it solid and make it your own design.

Most tables are pretty basic in design. A top, apron and legs. The extras are embellishments that make your bench/stand unique for what you are going to use it for. Like the stretchers around the bottom to keep the legs from spreading. Concentrate on the construction techniques that have been used for centuries to make a sturdy bench that is rack resistant.

[SLCJedi (Josh Tenny)]

Here is my Rock-Steady/project board bench.

[CullenS (Cullen Simpson)]

I have the Pro XXL. Here are some pictures of my table. I can send you dimensions if you like. I added a drawer after the fact. I did leave a lot of open space on the bottom for stock.

[mekcio (Tom Kalisz)]

Thank you for the pictures.
Dimension would be great to have, please send my way. I like the drawer and I was even thinking to incorporate tool box underneath with additional storage space and hoping to have room for storing stock. Since I am 6’ 2’ I want to have table high about 38’-40’ what is your opinion on that?

[CullenS (Cullen Simpson)]

I will measure shortly and get back with you.

[CullenS (Cullen Simpson)]

Ok. Mine is 58w by 46 deep by 33 tall.
That gives me 9 extra inches of width, I have 3 on the left and 6 on the right.

I have about 3 extra inches on front and back. Extra space on the front is a double edged sword. It’s a great place to put things but then again it’s a great place to put things. I had too much clutter there until I added the drawer but you do want your bits, wrenches and caliper handy.

I am only 5’4” so this height is good for me. It puts the spoilboard at about 35”.

My drawer is 46w, 19deep and 6” high. This leaves about 15 below where I have some stock and some larger things stored.

I used 6 4x4s and added retractable wheels. 3/4 inch plywood for the top and 1/2 for the lower shelf.

I think the size is perfect for me but could probably use a better way to organize the stock. Maybe stand it up behind the drawer and slide it in/out.

[mekcio (Tom Kalisz)]

Appreciate all the measurements and information. I am just staring with CNC so long way to learn the machine that is on my way.
I Lowe the way you made cutouts in the form for the tools I guess, on the machine. Can you share programming for that.

Thank you and Best Regards.

[CullenS (Cullen Simpson)]

Sure. Here is a post with some details

What did you cut on your Shapeoko/ Nomad today?

I finally cut the foam insert I bought for the drawer I added under the machine. The foam is 18x45+ so too long to cut in one section. I didn’t want to pull the machine away from the wall so I did a poor man’s tiling job. I designed the whole layout in a single file and then picked a spot to split it. Created 2 smaller sections and rotated one 90 degrees and the other -90. Then loaded the material and let it hang out. [image] It turned out nice but I had to pause the jobs a million times to …

This one has more info and some discussion with other guys on their tools and approaches. Read down a ways in there and you can find the C2D files that I posted. It was in 2 pieces because the foam was wider than I could accommodate on the machine and I hadn’t tried tiling yet.

Machining EVA Foam tool organizers with inexpensive cutters

I don’t think my foam was quite as rigid as yours I used the Amana 51404-k bit and it produced pretty nice cuts. This foam was in layers with glue between so you could in theory cut the perimeter and then peel up the layers to the depth you desired. In practice it didn’t peel that well so I just cut pockets to the depth I wanted. Only issue was when one of the pockets was at the exact depth of a glue layer. It was a little messy then, other than that the bottom and the top cut cleanly.

Those files have cutouts for a tramming gauge, tape measure, calipers, wrenches and bits as well as some general purpose pockets.

[Brew (Steven Middleton)]

@CullenS Cullen’s table height is a really good height. My is also 33" tall. The SO5Pro measures 1 3/4 inches in height for the spoilboard. If you are around 6’ tall you might make your table a little taller then 33". The height should be where you are comfortable reaching the middle from all 4 side of the table. It may not seem like something you need to do but at least for me I do, either to add hold downs or use the vac hose for clean up.

[CullenS (Cullen Simpson)]

Yes. If it was much taller I would have trouble reaching to the middle and being effective.

Of course every time I change the bit I wish it was taller as I have to get on my knees. Planning to add a small stool soon.

Everything is a trade off.

[mekcio (Tom Kalisz)]

Thank you for all the information

[Brazil_Builders (Josh Brazil)]

Thanks for the inspiration and size discussion. Here is what I did.

[gdon_2003 (Guy Donham)]

Looks pretty sturdy. You look ready to park an M1 Abrams Tank on top of it. I use pocket screws a lot. When I first started I would apply glue. Now I just use the pocket screws and no glue. I dont think glue adds anything and if necessary you can disassemble it if you need to make changes.