I used this for a year without any issues with my 2.2kW spindle:
It had 9l of antifreeze in it. 20l as Luke says will give you even more thermal margin.
EDIT: latest news is that spindles may like to stay under 35°C, and with those 9l of coolant with no active cooling it takes about 5 hours under light (but continous) load to reach that value.
side note: being from the old world I had to look-up how much a “quart” is, and google says it’s 0,946353l, is that how much a “quart reservoir” would hold ?
I’ve just about finished making a beefier Z axis for my machine to hold my new 1.5kw spindle. The manufacturer recommends a procedure for when you turn on the spindle of increasing the speed over a period of time. My question is do you run this warmup only once when you first turn on the spindle (as a run-in process) or every time you turn on the spindle as a warm up for cutting a project?
I’ve got a 2.2kw spindle - it ramps up to the speed setting over a short period of time (maybe 2 or 3 seconds?). You can tinker with the settings in the VFD to adjust the ramp up time to whatever you want. I’m pretty sure mine is just at the default settings - and I don’t really have a reason to change it.
the speed ramp up time (which @3DGG mentioned), I have it set to 3 seconds, but everyone can pick a value they like.
the “warm-up” of the spindle when initially turning it on for the day: I used to ignore that, but after discussing this here with folks (I’ll try and find that thread), I now have the habit of running a 10-minute spindle warm-up routine macro, that incrementally increases speed from 1000RPM to 24000RPM, staying 60seconds at each intermediate step : this will ensure that the bearings take their sweet time to heat-up, the grease to flow where it needs to flow, and more generally the spindle to reach its operating temperature, especially when it’s cold in the shop. The precision will only be better (but I would not go as far as calling it mandatory)
EDIT: Here’s the discussion I was referring to, and here’s my daily spindle warmup macro.
The VFD microprocessor’s crystal is likely the “inverter frequency standard” for its output frequency. But, PD144 appears to be the parameter that enables it to properly display spindle speed.
Hi Dylan, I have the exact setup as you except in 240V and I could not get it to work.
The previous advice you were given might not be correct for your newer VFD with the DIP switches on the board and you were told to have P00.01 on 1. I changed mine to 0 and everything works fine now. I know it’s an old post but just thought I would share.
This is the one I have, but there are others that someone else might recommend. I did not use the pump or the mount since I used the HDZ mount and built an enclosed cooler.
That’s basically the same one I have from a UK seller, the HuanYang spindle seems OK and they almost all come with a HuanYang labelled VFD.
It’s worth noting that the HuanYang spindle seems to have metal bearings rather than the preferred ceramic bearings, this suspicion is due to the shaft being grounded by the case. Some of the G Penney spindles do not conduct case to shaft and therefore may actually have ceramic bearings.
That said, there is little to choose at the running hours you’re likely to put on these spindles on a Shapeoko.
Hi everyone, greetings from Spain! And sorry my english
I have just recived my 2.2 kw spindle and I’m having some trouble with the VFD, it is a YL620 it seems that @Ddemnard and @snaterst have the same one, maybe you guys can help me.
I’ve been able to control it with CM, the PWM signal is 0-5V if I send M3 S12000 i can measure 2.5V. My main problem is that if I control the spindle manually it works just fine but if I try to control it with PWM it doesn’t mantain the speed, rattles, and if I check the frequency in the display the numbers are constantly moving around the correct frequency. For example in S12000 it shows something around 200hz.
I have tried reseting to factory settings and doing everything all over again but didn’t work.
My next step is to ground the spindle, I haven’t done it yet because I just wanted to test if it was working.
Another thing I would like to know is how to show the RPM on the display, I have tried different things I found online but nothing works.
I recorded a video where you could see what happens. Basically the DISP button only works for selecting the digit you want to change in settings, it does nothing when the display shows the frequency.
I can see diferent values if I press SET but most of them are always the same number and no idea what they mean.
I’ve turned the VFD on after some hours and it seems the P0001 went back to 0 when I set it on 1 for PWM control. I put it back on 1 and it worked but the STOP button won’t stop the spindle as if it was set to 2.
The video (You can hear the spindle not mantaining speed).
I had a look at your settings and the user manual (well the one I found online on some random site, do you have a digital version?).
Oh my, that manual is TERRIBLE. It’s almost impossible to be sure of anything given how little information is provided.
Your wiring looks ok to me, with FOR connected to XGND and PWM from the controller connected to GND and VI1 (just checking: the red wire is your positive lead from the controller, correct?). However, something is off because in the video you sent, the “REV” indicator is lit, so I suppose the spindle is running in reverse direction. Not that it should matter to solve this, but that’s not normal.
It seems from the manual that the VI1 input is a 0 to 10V (non-configurable?) input, while the Shapeoko controller will only generate a 0 to 5V PWM. That does not explain your issue, but should be sorted out too. Either get a converter, or maybe just adjust PD0312/PD0313 to 0-512 range for 0 to 400Hz
When you run in manual mode from the operator panel, does everything work correctly ? I am surprised the display reads “F2000” (more or less) in that video, I would expect the “F” display the frequency in Herz, so 2000 would be wrong. Also, it does not sound like a spindle going at 2000 RPM (which is very, very quiet). When you run in manual mode and turn the knob all the way to the right, what F value shows up ?
Thanks @Julien!
My bad for recording the video in that angle. The frequency showed is F 200,0 but can’t see the “,” from that angle. The same for the REV led it’s actually on FOR but from that angle it seems wrong.
I’ve got a printed manual, same as the one online.
Yes, the red wire is the positive, conected to the PWM pin in the CM board.
The VI1 input should be 0-5V because the PCB has some jumpers where you can choose between 5V or 10V, and it seems I have it correctly because the frequency showed at M3 S12000 is around 200hz. On manual control and with the knob all the way the right it shows 400hz.
I’m having many troubles with this unit, many times I change P0001 to different values but when restart it the value returned to the previous one, right now I have it set on 0 so I should be able to control it manually but I can’t, instead I can control it via PWM.
Last time I reset to factory was because I could not control it either way, no manual no PWM.
Sometimes the RUN and STOP buttons just don’t work and as you could see on the video the DISP button does nothing for showing RPM.
Would be nice if someone with the same VFD could tell me something, I think I’ve tried almost everything.
