@Griff, the pipes are 8mm outer diameter and I think 6mm inner diameter (I’ll double check later since I’m not near the machine right now, but the specs page for the pump says “outlet size 4 and 6mm”)
The pipes are not very good, they are ok for me as they won’t go into drag chains, but they are too rigid and I will probably replace them later (also, they are bright orange, which does not agree with Luke’s Beaver Blue )
Other than this :
packaging was excellent, everything protected really nicely.
I had to puzzle out the pinout on the aviation connector (and spindle), since the “1/2/3/4” markings on the connector were almost invisible, and there were none on the spindle connector itself. Pin 4 is easy : check for continuity with the spindle body with a multimeter. Pin 1 is the diagonal opposite of that.
if you don’t mix pin 2 and 3 like I initially did, Luke’s wiring scheme and the VFD parameters I discussed in the other dedicated thread should get you up and running in no time.
Now that I made a fool of myself with this ER collet offset ring thing, you won’t have too
runout is as I hoped (sub-0.01mm), that includes collets that are advertised as “below 0.008mm runout”, which seems to be true.
the collet nut is huge and tightening it requires a 21mm wrench for the shaft and 30mm (!) wrench for the nut. I may replace this nut with a high-quality one that is tightened with a (hopefully smaller) torque wrench, c.f. the link that @gmack mentionned, but for now I’ll use my monster 30mm wrench.
required Z clearance above the Z stepper is not as bad as I thought, but I still had to redo my enclosure to make it higher. This won’t be a problem for you if I remember pics from the condo you built for your Shapeoko
you should probably go straight to the Beaver-style water-cooling setup, without going through the “bucket under the Shapeoko” phase. I was lazy and wanted to be up and running quickly, but I will very likely redo this sometime.
Luke’s 80mm spindle mount is great, but it is larger than the old tramming plate+stock mount, so my hacked Suckit arms setup will not fit anymore, I have to redo this.
I have not yet decided exactly how high I want the spindle in the mount, tough call between rigidity and Z clearance. I have not trammed the spindle yet either, so we’ll see if the eccentrics nuts in the 80mm mount work as great as they did on the previous tramming plate.
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Griff
(Well crap, my hypometric precursor device is blown…)
59
Great info, thanks.
I am planning closed loop, following Luke’s lead per usual.
Cool beans. Did you order the same G-penny model & Huanyang VFD or something else ?
While you are waiting, this and this
I double checked the inner diameter of the water pipes, it’s around 5.8mm
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Griff
(Well crap, my hypometric precursor device is blown…)
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I BELIEVE it’s the same, used the link you provided. Except, ships from China, not Russia.
EDIT. I opted for steel bearings not ceramic.
The links are golden, thanks. Plenty of reading to do now.
That looks really familiar. Note I also tried to make a spay coolant setup using the same kit - it didn’t work, and isobutyl alcohol will shatter the tubes
Also either mill or print some new brackets, those are very, very brittle.
Just logging here a few more notes now that I am up and running, if anyone checks this later:
I modified the post-processor to add a delay after the spindle activation command, since I have programmed a 5second RPM ramp up in my VFD, so a ~5second delay is required before allowing the program to move and cut things. I just added a “G4 P5.0” command in the prologue section of my post-processor.
I am also trying to get into the best-practice habit of warming-up the spindle when it has been off for more than a couple of hours. For now I do it manually by using M3 commands, but it will get old quickly so I think I’ll just copy paste the following lines in a warmup.gcode file that I can just load and execute:
Griff
(Well crap, my hypometric precursor device is blown…)
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Nice, will be utilizing this.
I’m almost there. Re-worked the front of the “condo” to accommodate hinged doors and to enable tiling projects. Added an electronics cabinet, lower left. Completed 2nd HDZ, need to move the lead screw in.
Enjoy the silence! (well except for the bloody VFD fan than is now the loudest part)
I forgot that I also added a flow indicator at eye level, it’s completely passive for now, I have one no the way that I should be able to wire to trig an alert/emergency stop.
Oh, one more thing since you’re here: so are your plans for the dust shoe ?
My hacked Suckit arms that worked with the HDZ and the router, does not fit anymore with the larger spindle mount. And I have had enough of re-working it. And, I dropped the brackets and gained almost 5cm / 2’’ of X-travel, so I definitely don’t want side arms anymore.
I cannot go for the “dust jet” approach with vacuum hose in the back, on my standard SO3 the controller is in the way and I’m too lazy to relocate it.
I like the one you were using a while back (this one), and it would be a good exercise for me to practice Fusion360.
But, I think I may miss the Z-independent aspect of the Suckit.
And then I stumbled upon this, and it looks like a fantastic combination of a spindle-mounted shoe like you had, and a Z-independent shoe. Actually I already ordered a cheap rack boot, I need to try this and figure out if it works.
Anyway, I’m interested to hear what you had in mind shoe-wise.
How far out the back do the electronics stick out that you would have to clear?
Im hopefully going to test out my new dust shoe this weekend and I just love how open it is. Maybe I can come up with something that will clear the electronics
The whole controller box depth, that’s ~6cm / 2.36’’
But assuming that could be managed, I would still have the problem that the back of my enclosure is flush with the rear plates, so when homing I only have 1cm / 0.4’’ of margin left between the back of the controller box and the enclosure wall.
Dangit! I guess that kills it right there, I personally love how open it is without the hose out in front and in the way. That dust jet v1 is nice and offset to the side but it cuts off your x travel. hmmmmmm
Griff
(Well crap, my hypometric precursor device is blown…)
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To be honest, not sure yet. I’ve seen the floating one you referenced, I may try putting one of those together. The one I printed, and still use, is just OK, not the best by far.
I may bite the bullet (again) and go for a SuckIt. If they have improved their durability. My 1st Gen version literally exploded when I rapided into a vice.
Griff
(Well crap, my hypometric precursor device is blown…)
71
Yeah, he mentioned an upgrade in the works a while back. A rear extraction version. Kinda holding out for that.
This is the new version of mine that Ive finally got around to making, I am waiting for the solvent glue to come in to bond the pieces together before I can test it out. The first version I made works exceptionally well but I have to contend with the brushes being in the way or removing the whole shoe from the back(its only one screw but still…)
This new version holds onto the “insert” with 6 magnets, 3 in the shoe and 3 in the insert. The 3 in this insert are proud .025" of the surface and the 3 in the shoe are recessed .025" to really make it a strong connection. I cant wait to implement this new design on my machine.
I do have another version but requires me to mount the steppers on the outside of the plates to allow a 3.5" acrylic tube in the back instead of the .375" steel rod.
@Griff@Julien
I worked this up a while ago. I have a few different iterations I can share. I actually printed a couple that I have no use for. (When fixing/modifying a 3d printer I like to do a test of many small parts and one big) It’s of the same style as the one I believe Griff uses. @Luke used one for a while. https://a360.co/2yOou7p
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Griff
(Well crap, my hypometric precursor device is blown…)
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Thanks Neil. But I get an error I’ve no idea how to get around.
Thank you, I’ll download it, adapt the vacuum diameter for my specific hose, and print that to be up and running soon. And THEN I’ll work on designing my own flavor of a floating dust shoe with embedded USB microscope, laser pointer for zeroing, and possibly other unnecessary gadgets that would be cool to throw in the mix to make it a fun project.
off-topic note: yesterday I updated my 3D printer drivers from the A4988s to TMC2208s, oh my I wish I did this sooner, the printer is now very, very quiet. Except for the fans. That will probably be my next rabbit hole: making it water-cooled so that it be absolutely silent!
1 Like
Griff
(Well crap, my hypometric precursor device is blown…)
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Pardon my ignorance, I open the link ok but see no way to download the actual design. Usually for these there is a button top-right to download link to email. Thanks
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