I BELIEVE it’s the same, used the link you provided. Except, ships from China, not Russia.
EDIT. I opted for steel bearings not ceramic.
The links are golden, thanks. Plenty of reading to do now.
I BELIEVE it’s the same, used the link you provided. Except, ships from China, not Russia.
EDIT. I opted for steel bearings not ceramic.
The links are golden, thanks. Plenty of reading to do now.
That looks really familiar. Note I also tried to make a spay coolant setup using the same kit - it didn’t work, and isobutyl alcohol will shatter the tubes
Also either mill or print some new brackets, those are very, very brittle.
Just logging here a few more notes now that I am up and running, if anyone checks this later:
I modified the post-processor to add a delay after the spindle activation command, since I have programmed a 5second RPM ramp up in my VFD, so a ~5second delay is required before allowing the program to move and cut things. I just added a “G4 P5.0” command in the prologue section of my post-processor.
I am also trying to get into the best-practice habit of warming-up the spindle when it has been off for more than a couple of hours. For now I do it manually by using M3 commands, but it will get old quickly so I think I’ll just copy paste the following lines in a warmup.gcode file that I can just load and execute:
M3S2000
G4 P60.0
M3S4000
G4 P60.0
M3S6000
G4 P60.0
M3S8000
G4 P60.0
M3S10000
G4 P60.0
M3S12000
G4 P60.0
M3S14000
G4 P60.0
M3S16000
G4 P60.0
M3S18000
G4 P60.0
M3S20000
G4 P60.0
M3S22000
G4 P60.0
M3S24000
G4 P60.0
M5
That’s a 12 minute ramp-up to max RPM, it should do the job of getting the bearings up to nominal dimension and the grease to nominal temperature.
Nice, will be utilizing this.
I’m almost there. Re-worked the front of the “condo” to accommodate hinged doors and to enable tiling projects. Added an electronics cabinet, lower left. Completed 2nd HDZ, need to move the lead screw in.
Thanks for help and inspiration Julien.
Enjoy the silence! (well except for the bloody VFD fan than is now the loudest part)
I forgot that I also added a flow indicator at eye level, it’s completely passive for now, I have one no the way that I should be able to wire to trig an alert/emergency stop.
Oh, one more thing since you’re here: so are your plans for the dust shoe ?
My hacked Suckit arms that worked with the HDZ and the router, does not fit anymore with the larger spindle mount. And I have had enough of re-working it. And, I dropped the brackets and gained almost 5cm / 2’’ of X-travel, so I definitely don’t want side arms anymore.
I cannot go for the “dust jet” approach with vacuum hose in the back, on my standard SO3 the controller is in the way and I’m too lazy to relocate it.
I like the one you were using a while back (this one), and it would be a good exercise for me to practice Fusion360.
But, I think I may miss the Z-independent aspect of the Suckit.
And then I stumbled upon this, and it looks like a fantastic combination of a spindle-mounted shoe like you had, and a Z-independent shoe. Actually I already ordered a cheap rack boot, I need to try this and figure out if it works.
Anyway, I’m interested to hear what you had in mind shoe-wise.
How far out the back do the electronics stick out that you would have to clear?
Im hopefully going to test out my new dust shoe this weekend and I just love how open it is. Maybe I can come up with something that will clear the electronics
The whole controller box depth, that’s ~6cm / 2.36’’
But assuming that could be managed, I would still have the problem that the back of my enclosure is flush with the rear plates, so when homing I only have 1cm / 0.4’’ of margin left between the back of the controller box and the enclosure wall.
Dangit! I guess that kills it right there, I personally love how open it is without the hose out in front and in the way. That dust jet v1 is nice and offset to the side but it cuts off your x travel. hmmmmmm
To be honest, not sure yet. I’ve seen the floating one you referenced, I may try putting one of those together. The one I printed, and still use, is just OK, not the best by far.
I may bite the bullet (again) and go for a SuckIt. If they have improved their durability. My 1st Gen version literally exploded when I rapided into a vice.
Yeah, he mentioned an upgrade in the works a while back. A rear extraction version. Kinda holding out for that.
@Griff @Julien
I worked this up a while ago. I have a few different iterations I can share. I actually printed a couple that I have no use for. (When fixing/modifying a 3d printer I like to do a test of many small parts and one big) It’s of the same style as the one I believe Griff uses. @Luke used one for a while.
https://a360.co/2yOou7p
Check the edited link above… Trying to share from my phone and having issues.
Thank you, I’ll download it, adapt the vacuum diameter for my specific hose, and print that to be up and running soon. And THEN I’ll work on designing my own flavor of a floating dust shoe with embedded USB microscope, laser pointer for zeroing, and possibly other unnecessary gadgets that would be cool to throw in the mix to make it a fun project.
off-topic note: yesterday I updated my 3D printer drivers from the A4988s to TMC2208s, oh my I wish I did this sooner, the printer is now very, very quiet. Except for the fans. That will probably be my next rabbit hole: making it water-cooled so that it be absolutely silent!
Pardon my ignorance, I open the link ok but see no way to download the actual design. Usually for these there is a button top-right to download link to email. Thanks
I never shared it.
https://a360.co/2yOou7p
If this does’t work, I’ll share when I get to a proper computer.
Wow 30mm wrenches are expensive!
My first project with the new spindle was a 30mm wrench. Kind of ugly but gets the job done.
This topic was automatically closed 30 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.