Did you have a chance to try using VI2 instead of VI1 ? (just curious)
Oh sorry, I checked it but forgot to say that there is no VI2 connection, at least I couldn´t find it.
That’s correct, I was misled by the manual which describes a VI2 input, which is apparently not implemented on this VFD model, my bad.
So at this point:
- using the PWM on VI1 configured as 0-5V, with PD0310 to 3 and PD0311 to 1020, gives unstable RPM, around the commanded value.
- using the PWM on VI1 configured as 0-10V, with PD0310 to 3 and PD0311 to 1020 gives stable RPM but at half the commanded value
- using the PWM on VI1 configured as 0-10V with PD0310 to 3 and PD0311 to 512 gives unstable RPM around the commanded value
Is this correct?
The RPM seem to be stable JUST when the PWM signal is at 5V, no less.
- Configured as 0-5V and 24000rpm seemed stable, but I was not sure at first.
- Configured as 0-10V and 12000rpm was stable.
That’s why I thought a PWM to analog signal converter could fix it, I don’t have much knowledge in electronics but I guess that the PWM signal when it is set at the maximum has less or none fluctuation, I could be wrong.
I don’t know if I mentioned that I have checked the PWM voltage many times and it was always spot on, no variations.
Hi, I think I finally have a working VFD. The converter worked fine and now the rpm are stable.
I was also having issues with the changed settings not being saved in the VFD, I contacted the seller and he gave me the solution.
Also, seems that this VFD has not a RPM display. I was able to set some parameters so it could apply a multiplier to the frequency and show the RPM that way (200hz x 60 = 12000rpm), but it can only show 4 digits.
For now I have setted the multiplier at 0,6 so in this case it should show just 12k.
I’ll try to install the spindle during the next week. I think it’ll be useful for other people with a YL620 if I explain what I needed for the VFD to work, so I’m planning on doing a step by step here. Or should I start a new post?
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Probably so, and include “YL620 VFD setup” in the title to make it easier to search for that information later?
Looking forward to hear about what was causing the instability issue.
Hello @EneK & @Julien
I’m trying to configure my VFD (YL-620A / same as yours Enek) for PWM control and found this topic…
till now I managed to run my spindle with the knob and I would like to control it by software.
I use a Blackbox controler, PWM is working correctly (0-10v and fully linear)
I have the same wiring from PWM input and FOR to XGND
but my commands are not working well, run at 24000rpm is ok, stop is ok but in the intervall it’s not correct. (frequency achieved is not corresponding to the one expected )
in the doc I received with the VFD, it is mentionned to shortcircuited JP1 btw pin 2 & 3.
as on yours, JP1 is not mounted (at the right of the red dipswitch) and is only 2 pins (connected together via the PCB)
did you change something else? on the dipswitch maybe?
thanks for your help!
I’ll let @EneK answer that as I don’t have the same VFD. What RPM behavior do you get exactly? It could be that the minimum RPM setting is not correctly set?
For seting the VFD to 0-10V I had to move the dipswitch 1 up.
I had a problem in the intervall too, in my case I could solve it by changing PD0311 from 1020 to a lower value but I had to adjust the input voltage so at M3 S12000 the frequency shown was 200 (I use a 0-5V 0-10V converter) and then trying if other frequencies where right. Finally worked at a 850 value, probably a sketchy solution but the spindle RPM is acceptably close to the one sent.
Also, I had problems when trying to set some values, the changes wouldn’t be saved. I contacted the seller and finally the solution was to remove the wires connected (VI1,GND,FOR and XGND) every time I wanted to change something.
Hey @EneK,
Re saving settings for the vfd: have you tried to save them by pressing the PRGM and down arrow simultaneously? On my VFD this stores the setting and you can restore the saved settings by pressing PRGM and up arrow again etc.
Sorry I didn’t comment on this before (didn’t see the thread) but the fluctuating rpm is most likely caused by your PWM wiring picking up noise from the vfd. This can be solved by adding a RC filter to your circuit (which is most likely part of your 0-10V converter anyway). In my case it did lower the voltage of the signal quite a bit so I had to adjust PD0311 to get a somehow matching RPM to the one requested via PWM.
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Hi Guys
@Julien, i will try the info provided by @EneK (moving the dipswitch 1 to upper position) and if not working provide number.
from what I remember, it was not proportional, meaning than puting 12000 rpm was giving around 100hz.
but was ok for 0 & 24000 rpm.
@EneK,
thanks for the info on dipswitch 1, you just move the N°1, not the second?
I’ve a small drawing on the PCB, on the left of the relay mentionning “IP = JP2 0-10V & DOWN 0-5V” so that make more sense to move position 1&2 to get the VFD drived by 0-10V and maybe for you to keep them down…
for PD03.11, i will try too.
snaterst, (sorry as a newbie, i can only tag 2 users)
thanks for the reco. im my case, i’ve a short video from the seller and they just unplugged the VFD from main power to save the parameters but I will also try your proposal.
have a nice sunday Guys!
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Guys
VFD fully controled by 0-10V.
parameters from @EneK like this
JP2 1&2 UP
P0000 50 changed to 400
P0001 1
P0004 400
P0005 400
P0006 100
P0007 10
P0008 10
P0009 0,2
P0010 5
P0011 100
P0310 3
P0311 1020 changed to 1023
P0312 0
P0313 400
P0314 3
P0315 1020 changed to1023
P0316 0
P0317 400
thanks 
3 Likes
Thanks for the summary, @Amaurymsa - very useful.
I’ve just received a YL620 (I thought it was a YL600 but it was my mistake) and a g-penny spindle and will be setting that up over the weekend. If there’s anything different or useful I’ll try to contribute that knowledge here or in a more appropriate thread.
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I see above the recommendation to upgrade to the HDZ if looking to add a water cooled spindle to accommodate for the extra weight but the thread also talks about doing this to the Shapeoko 3. Just curious if extra measures would also be required to add such a spindle to the stock Shapeoko Pro XL/XXL as I’d likely also want to go down this route mainly to reduce the noise factor. If some extra measures would still be needed for the 2.2kw spindles would it also be the same scenario if looking at the 1.5kw spindles and even the 800w (G-Penny) as less kw also means lighter spindle?
I’ll let you browse through the many threads on spindle upgrades, but basically:
- the Z-plus should handle the weight of a 2.2kW spindle, but the HDZ is probably a more consistent choice if you really need to go big and don’t want to put too much strain on the Z-plus leadscrew.
- However, on a Shapeoko3 (non-Pro), a 2.2kW spindle is overkill for 99% of cutting scenarios (I’m guilty of overkill myself), and you will be better off installing a 800W or 1.5kW spindle. And then the weight is much less, and the Z-plus will take it like a champ. I think the same conclusion still applies to the Pro (that 1.5kW is plenty and you will never max out spindle power).
If I owned a Pro and wanted to upgrade now, I would most definitely pick a 1.5kW model.
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We would recommend you use a lighter spindle such as a 65mm 1.5kw spindle on a pro. As the ZPlus (pro Z axis) uses a lead screw I would think whilst it will lift the wright we would expect premature wear on the lead screw or lead nut. The Z plus will put out around 26kg of force, in contrast the HDZ will push out over 70kg at which point the motor skips. For most people 800w-1.5kw would be enough power…
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@Julien @Luke, thanks for your responses. I sent an email into the sales team asking if they had an ETA on the HDZ and/or 80mm mount being available which I understand it’s on the roadmap but no firm ETA at the moment. Ideally I’d be able to order a Shapeoko Pro (XL or XXL) with the upgraded HDZ/80mm mount paying the difference as I wouldn’t need the Z-Plus saving a bit on overall costs. I’d be willing to sit tight and wait a few months to place my order if I knew this would be an option. Alternatively I’ve been considering going down the route of getting a G-Penny 800W spindle as it appears to come with the 1.5kw vfd in the kit while keeping me in the 65mm mount size so would get me going now while providing an upgrade path later to a 1.5kw spindle using the same vfd if I felt more power was needed. Although this costs more and I’d have a 800W spindle and Z-plus to offload afterwards. As for the 1.5kw spindle kits that are water cooled appear to be much more rare compared to air cooled 1.5kw spindles in the 65mm sizes. A classic “Wants vs Needs” dilemma
EDIT: but now I’m getting off topic… Sorry!!!
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It’s not a dilemna, the Wants will win, guaranteed 
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Has anyone even come close to using more than 500 Watts of output/cutting power on any (even massively upgraded - beyond PROs?) Shapeokos yet? 