Machining offset - Shapeoko 3XXL

Hello everyone,

I am losing my mind, I have a shift that appears when machining on my shapeoko 3XXL.
I always machine the same part from the same file, nothing changes and the zero is set in carbide motion.

I am attaching a photo to better visualize the problem. we can clearly see that on the top piece the holes are offset upwards by a few millimeters.

I thought it was a belt tension problem, but everything’s under tension.

Could it be that the GRBL card is faulty? or tension problems? or electronics?

I don’t know where to look for my solution.

Thank you in advance for your help,

Boris

Have you checked the pulleys? Two screws, both tight, one over the flat of the motor shaft.

While you are looking, mark the end of the pulleys so you can easily tell in the future if they are loose:
IMG_1797

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Hi Michael, thank you for your answer.

I checked the pulleys and everything is tight.

Do you have a shapeoko 3? The shaft of my motor doesn’t come flush with the pulley like you do.


It might be in the V-wheels. Loose or need replacement?

I would also keep the groove they ride on clean.

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First check that the machine is mechanically sound. Note that there is a troubleshooting video: https://youtu.be/tnWFB9iW8Sg?si=5MtGVaj7N-O51_ab
Per the machine operating checklist: Machine Operating Checklist , the basic points of adjustment for a machine are:

Naturally, this assumes that all the wiring is in good condition and all connectors secure per the Machine Operating Checklist. Verify that all wiring is in good condition and all connectors are secure, and that all wiring leading into connectors are properly in place and are secured so that the wiring leading into and away from connectors will not shift.
A good video overview on setup:

Tramming the Z-Plus: https://youtu.be/rGOGlNurglE
Ensure that all screws are in place and secure, esp. on the linear rails on a Pro.

Which Z-axis does your machine have?

The other thing to look into is feeds and speeds and toolpaths — where possible avoid slotting and add geometry and cut as a pocket (Making vacuum hose adapters and/or Adding geometry to cut as a pocket with a finishing pass ) and consider leaving a roughing clearance and taking a finishing pass.
Best Bit for full cut through - #2 by WillAdams

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After you have confirmed the set screw is on the flat of the shaft, a line as shown, in line with the flat of the shaft will do the same thing visually. Just have to look to see if the flat is still lined up.

Good Luck

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Hi Will, thank you for your reply.

I have the shapeoko 3XXL Z Plus. I’ve checked everything you advised and everything’s fine.

I did a lot of thinking last night and I’ve just realized that the problem could come from the limit switches (https://eu.robotshop.com/fr/products/shapeoko-proximity-switch-kit-standard).

To make sure you understand, I make knife handles in series with a handle reversal.
I have an offset that appears during the first machining operations, and consequently also during the reversal, even though it didn’t exist during my previous machining.

Here’s how I work:

  1. I zero the machine at the top right.
  2. I use my macro to bring my milling cutter to my machining zero.
  3. I define my new zero on my stock using the macro.
    4 I start machining

When I configured my settings at the very beginning, I made marks at various points on my machining plate with known coordinates.
Today, when I enter these coordinates, my milling cutter comes to rest with a slight offset (the cutter is no longer perfectly aligned).

I therefore suspect that the end-of-stroke sensors must not have positioned my machine correctly when it was zeroed.

Is this possible ?

Thank you

Normally, the offset when homing is a function of:

  • variation in sensor distance activation — this is usually quite small
  • where the micro-step is in relation to the switch physically when the switch is triggered

In practice, the variability is roughly half the step-distance (1/40th of a millimeter on a belt-drive machine).

Since it is easy to see that circles are not centered, the best practice is to machine all the visible nested holes first so as to ensure that they match up — said holes can then be used to secure the parts onto a fixture which has a suitable mechanism for ensuring that things line up — a metal plate with two holes which may be probed is a good approach (use one for the origin, the other to ensure that the fixture is mounted squarely).

This sort of thing should have been covered in the series:

One last thing — best place to start for this sort of thing is:

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