I’ve attached pictures of the plinth block I’m trying to copy and the Carbide Create file. I’m not trying to get the plinth block exactly like the original, just something close and 10" tall. I was able to get the tool paths to work with your advice to use contours. There will be some needed adjustments but at least I’m closer that before I received your help.
Thank you for the response. I’m amazed at how fast you responded after performing some complicated (to me anyway) tasks to get there. My problem is I do not have training in the programs you used, so I don’t have the skill set to get it completed as you did. I also am in the middle of a remodeling project and need to get the plinth blocks completed or decide on alternative. I’ll continue to work on the plinth blocks, but considering the software and knowledge I need to get it done, I’m not very confident. Do you have any other suggestions? Thank you.
You could have instead just re-taken the photos to make them square (I usually arrange such things on a gridded cutting board), then done the re-drawing in Carbide Create:
OpenSCAD is free, and it’s pretty obvious what the two lines of code do — presumably there are other 3D tools which could be used for this — I suppose you could buy:
and use that.
If you want me to send the file I made, let me know at support and I’ll put it on Google drive and send you the link (too large to e-mail).
It looks like I have a lot to learn. I didn’t know I could import that picture directly into Carbide Create. If you would be willing to send me the finished file that would be awesome. Hopefully, when this remodeling project is completed I can spend more time learning some of the software and using my Shapeoko more. Thank you.
Heresy perhaps, but maybe sometimes CNC isn’t the answer? Depending on how many you need I’d cut the basic profile on a router table or shaper and then hand carve the pattern with a gouge and veiner. Less fun I guess, but done way before I’d get the programming figured out.
I’m sure I’ll try doing plenty of things the hard way while I try to learn to use my new machine, but in the midst of a renovation project on a schedule is not a relaxing learning environment if you only need a few of them.
I’ve been thinking about using the CNC for the arches and leaf pattern and using a regular router table for the rest. I need 50 plinth blocks for the remodel project so hand carving some of that would take a lot of time. It’s just hard to give up trying to figure out the programming! But, you are correct,trying to learn the programming in the midst of a project may not be the best plan.
For 50 I’d work through making it work on the CNC. Hiring someone to create the required drawing might lower your stress level and move the project along. I did that for a complicated 3d printed part I needed and it worked out well.
Since you can run all the stock you need in a few passes of long boards on the router table that’s probably a more efficient use of machine time, reserving the CNC for the carving step. .
I did the design work, step-by-step above, and provided @bjwoodworking1960 a Google drive link to the file. All that it needs is tool selection and applying 3D toolpaths (which was also shown above).
I had some success and I was able to get the main 3D profiles, but then the arches and leaf pattern don’t come out because the 3D cutouts change the depth of the workpiece. How do you get that to follow the depth of the 3d cutouts?
I’m changing my plan on how to make the plinth blocks and will try using a router table instead. I hope I can add the arches and flowers in 2D as my Pro trial expired while I was on vacation. Considering the results, cost, the time it takes to watch videos, and learn how to use it, I don’t think the Pro version is practical for me at this time. The toolpaths will take almost two hours for each block and considering I need 48 blocks, it just isn’t feasible to use the Shapeoko to make them. I thought I had good toolpaths and tried to make a sample block before vacation, but the bit started cutting at 1/2" deep so I had to shut it down. I had the start points set so I don’t know why that happened.
If things still don’t line up, upload your .c2d file and let us know step-by-step how you are securing your stock and setting zero relative to it and managing all tool changes and a photo showing the stock still in place and the machine at the zero position (or a specified offset from it) and we will look into this with you.
I had some luck this morning and I was able to create a 2D sample. I attached some photos that show how I secured the workpiece and how it turned out. I think I need to make the v grooves in more passes and a little less each time. The oak is very hard and I think that would work better. I don’t understand why the flower path makes the little holes in the circles. Also, the 1/16" for the circles pass retraces the arches, not sure why as I didn’t select that in the arches. I think the arches shouldn’t be so deep, and the circles deeper. The flat area at the top doesn’t go all the way to the edges, it seems I have difficulty getting the vector to go to each edge correctly. I believe I’ve gained some ground today and that using 2D I can get something made. I appreciate you patience and assistance.
