Making rail bearing lube easier

I love my 5 Pro with linear rails and leadscrews, but I must admit that regular lubrication of those linear bearings takes some very interesting contortions that definitely get harder with age and presbyopia, especially if there is no room for a rolling table in the workshop (or more accurately, half a 2-car garage)!

I’ve finally got myself an answer to it :slight_smile:

I found some nice tiny brass hose barbs with M4 threads on eBay. 1PC Brass Hose Barb Connector Metric Male Thread M4 M5 M6 M8 Barb Ф3~10mm | eBay

Add a 1/8" O-ring and a few inches of 1/4" fuel line, and voila, an adapter considerably more flexible than I am. The disposable pipettes from Carbide fit nicely into the tubing, and the original M4 bolt caps the open end once they’re lubed.

Now, those lower Z-axis and Y-axis bearings are no longer a challenge! The barb and tubing stays on all the time, removing the bolt temporarily for lubrication from above. The top Z bearings and X bearings are already pretty accessible, so you only ready need six of these for the lower Z and Y bearings.

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Question???

Would a Zert fitting work? Don’t have that machine YET. Just occurred to me when I saw your pics.

I’m not sure that Zerk nipples are available in M4 straight threads. All the specs I have seen are for tapered threads (and SAE at that). This is also a fairly low viscosity oil, rather than a grease, and the linear bearings aren’t pressurized with lubricant.
I looked around and didn’t find any, but if you know of a source for ones with the correct thread size, I’d be interested to get a link.

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Here’s a link. and although we’re using oil, the zerk would act like a check valve.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Straight-Fitting-Hydraulic-Accessories/dp/B0B3RY6HL8/ref=sr_1_5?hvadid=486277860203&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9017227&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=4215987575393660827&hvtargid=kwd-1077784983095&hydadcr=12972_9726952&keywords=m4+grease+fitting&qid=1699291746&sr=8-5

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My first thought was that the air in the bearings would need somewhere to go when using a zerk. But I guess there is likely enough room for air to escape between the balls in the bearings.

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definitely enough room for the WD40 to escape that I used to flush the crud out of my bearings, and of course followed up with the Vactra 2.

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Yep, lots of spaces for gas to escape…

Sliding the blocks along the rail helps get grease into the block from the end cap reservoir, doesn’t seem to be necessary with the low viscosity Vactra oil.

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It may also be intresting to take a look at grease vs oil here. Carbide3d is one of the only cnc companies that suggests oil over grease for their linear hardware.

I’m told that switching oil to grease or vice versa requires cleaning out the previous lubricant from the bearing blocks, so the first rule would appear to be, keep using whichever the machine shipped with unless you’re prepared to properly clean the blocks out.

If you’re switching, avoid any of the greases containing ‘slippery’ particle additives such as graphite or Molybdenum Disulphide as these will make the balls slide on the rail instead of roll and destroy the blocks in relatively short order.

The simple rule for when to relubricate appears to be to wipe the rail dry with a cloth, run the axis back and forth, then wipe again to see that a film of oil or grease is deposited on the rail, when this stops happening, time to fill the blocks up again. This has the handy side effect of having you clean the accumulated chips and crud off the rails…

Somebody who knows a lot more than me pointed me at this document

Where an OEM of high quality linear bearings describes the lubrication options, including giving specific selections of greases and oils suitable for various applications.

Looking at the lubrication quantities and relubrication intervals in the document, the blocks on the HDZ are closest to the HG series, I think the smaller blocks on the X and Y axes of the Pro machines are closer to MG series, but I don’t have one so I haven’t confirmed.

One thing that surprised me is the relubration interval graph (pg 11) which suggests that at the low load in this type of machine, the relubrication interval is in the many hundreds to 1,000 km of block travel. Most Shapeoko users are likely refreshing rather than replacing the lubricant when re-lubricating.

They describe the lubricant options as high viscosity grease, low viscosity grease and oil. Regarding oil they state:
“The relubrication intervals for oil lubrication are reduced to 50 % of the relubrication intervals for grease lubrication”, however, that is still hundreds of km.

On greases, as noted above, the document states
“Greases with solid particles such as graphite or MOS2 must not be used.”

On oils the doc says
“Lubricating oils offer the advantage of more even distribution and reach the contact surfaces more effectively. However, this also means that lubricating oils collect in the lower area of the product as a result of the force of gravity and thus more quickly cause soiling. For this reason, higher quantities of lubricant are required than with grease lubrication.”

Remember that this advice is given in the context of continuously operating industrial machines where the users expect many 1,000s of km of bearing operating life between replacements, 1,000km is 1.1 billion lengths of an XXL axis… These bearings are basically on holiday in a small gantry router :wink:

In my experience, I’m happy to fairly regularly fill the blocks up with some Mobil Vactra (I bought a litre on eBay) and flush the old stuff out well before it ages or the blocks run dry. I’ve mostly got the hang of stuffing a small syringe into the various lube ports on the rail blocks.

HTH

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I added some oil recently but didn’t flush to old out. Maybe I should have been more forceful. Getting to the ports on the bottom blocks of the Z plus isn’t fun. I just inserted from the bottom hole and stuck the screw in quickly. I have seen other suggestions on ways to get to the top holes.

I trammed recently and am very happy with the performance now. I don’t want to mess that up and most of the other methods would require re tramming I think.

Thanks for that link to 4 mm threaded Zerks. Of course, it’s Amazon :slight_smile:.

I am going to get some to try out off the machine to see what kind of opening pressure you need for the spring loaded ball - and then if it’s reasonable I’ll check if the threaded length is long enough to reach the threads on the machine.

This is all great information for linear bearing lubrication, BTW.

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Well, the good news is that those M4 Zerk fittings have a low enough opening pressure that a small syringe works even with air (though I’m not sure that the disposable pipettes would).

The bad news is that the 4 mm threaded section is not long enough to engage with the threads on the bearing.

It does, however, fit tightly into the fuel line tubing on the existing barbs as a non-return valve :slight_smile:.

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I stumbled across these “oil tanks” when I was in China this summer. Bought for my HDZ blocks but has not been installed yet.
Maybe this would be something to consider? I will report back if I ever get to install mine.

It’s a small tank that mounts on the existing block.

IMG_7631

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Are they easy to pop on/off or easier to fill?

Haven’t tried yet. But by the looks of it it seems promising and fairly easy to install.

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Let us know how that goes.

Be worth checking whether they fit any other manufacturer’s block, Hiwin has a whole range of options for the blocks when you order them, different seals and scrapers as well as these oil tanks, but I think they’re all specific to the Hiwin block. Of cource if the blocks you have are a good enough copy then the Hiwin accessories may fit…

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I have the Pro (not 5) with the Z Plus. I really hate dealing with the blocks because I know it means an hour plus of tramming afterward.

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@CullenS - that’s the whole reason for this thread. I put those barbs in once (without needing to disassemble and re-tram) and I can lube in a couple of minutes without any of that hassle now.

I’m going to shorten those flexible tubes and add those Zerks instead of the original bolts to cap them. Since I now have them, i might as well use them. That way I’ll just use a syringe with an appropriate diameter short tube that slips over the Zerk when I need to add more oil.

At under a dollar each for the barbs and similar for the Zerks, it’s a bargain.

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I don’t know if the fittings are the same size on the Pro (not 5) with the Z Plus. The screws on my guide blocks seem microscopically small. I will have to check it out.