I seem to keep dropping my bits and this seemed to match the carbide3d router - has anyone tried this? As far as i can tell the carbide3d router has the same threads as a Makita RT0701.
thanks!
The C3D router is a clone of the Makita. So yes they are the same thread as the Makits.
If your bits are coming loose try a couple of things. First clean the collet nut and collet with qtips and a solvent like brake cleaner or denatured aclohol or acetone. Second make sure the collet nut and collet are dry with no lubricants. Third also clean the inside of the router shaft with the solvent and a qtip. Lastly on the Makita/C3D router there is a button to lock the router shaft. You use that to initially get your bit tight enough so it does not fall out and then you use two wrenches to finish tightening up your collet nut.
The collet has slots cut in it and as the router collet nut is tightened up it forces the collet up the router shaft. The inside of the collet shaft is an inclined plane. As you tighten up the nut and it forces the bit and collet up the inclined plane the cuts in the collet are compressed and hold your router bit tight.
When inserting the bit into the collet it should be inserted at least as high as the top of the collet. You can seat the bit higher but never all the way up. If you push the bit up as far as it can go when you tighten up the collet nut and collet it will run out of room to tighten and leave your bit loose and possibly running out of round.
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The concern about such things has always been balance and runout and how well it will hold for long CNC sessions.
It’s been mentioned/discussed since the SO3 days, but I’ve never seen any positive reports.
Note that rather than do something like this, we worked with our manufacturer to implement ER-11 collets:
rather than do this sort of thing.
Some folks use a small catch tray or bin underneath for tool changes.
Perhaps upgrading to ER-11 would be more workable?
Note that a pair of good quality wrenches will help a lot. The community has the following notes:
Carbide Compact Router/Makita RT0700/0700 shaft and collet/nut wrench sizes:
- 13mm — note that this must be low profile.
- Amazon.com
- Bicycle cone wrenches work as well such as the 13mm Park Tool PT-09 Shop Cone Wrench
- Asahi low profile 11/13mm wrench
- McMaster-Carr Tight-Clearance Open-End Wrench with Black Finish, 13 mm Size, 4" Overall Length (sourced from Martin as of mid-2020)
- 22mm — a stubby wrench is well-suited for this, and handier due to the low torque requirements
ER-11 spindle collet shaft and collet/nut wrench sizes:
- 12mm (note that some machines may accepted 13 mm (see above) or 1/2"), possibly needs to be low profile.
- Amazon.com * Amazon.com
- McMaster-Carr — note that these are currently: Product Information Amazon.com
- 17mm open-end wrench — specialty ER-11 collet wrenches such as: ER11 Collet Wrench for ER11 Collet Nuts MariTool are available.
For true tool-less tool changes see:
Thanks for all the things to try as well. I can’t fault the router - I know that i just didn’t tighten it enough/clean out the dust between bit changes when the bit slipped during cutting.
Most of the time I end up whacking my knuckles and having the bit drop to the bed (always into the %#%ing track to make a nice “clink” sound which hurts my soul) when removing a bit.
I really like that Maffell router with the quick change - but if I am going to spend that much I’d rather go to a spindle with an automatic tool changer.
Again thanks for all the info - I think I’ll try the ER11 and the MuscleChuck and see which one works for me.
There are no ATC systems at that price which seem worth using.
ATCs are inherently expensive, and a full set of tool holders alone would cost more than I’ve spent on spindles and mounts in all the time I’ve been doing this…
and once once has a set of tool holders one still needs a vacuum pump, a compressor, a tool carrel/rack, the spindle, and the ATC system for the spindle — one could easily double the cost of a Shapeoko HDM, and still would need to add an enclosure — doing an ATC right is an expensive proposition.
And, it then requires that when running the machine, one puts up with all the added noise (or have a large enough space that the accouterments can be exiled to a separate room and suitable tubing run).
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1 Week review of musclechuck
- sawdust does not accumulate in chuck
- only one tool for bit changes to keep track of (also same size as screws on dust boot which is handy)
- seems to work even during long (25 min only so far) cutting session
- tool changes are faster, haven’t dropped a tool since one hand is on the bit
Overall it seems ok so far and is completing the projects I have thrown at it, and is a nice little quality of life upgrade.
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