So just found this guy on Openbuilds and figured I should share:
It’s a router that uses ER11 collets and has a high quality bearing with low runout. Plus it has a comparable RPM range to the Makita. If I had found this a year ago I would not be playing with my brushless routers and honestly I’m tempted to get one.
…available as an option on machine bundles only, though!
If it was in stock I would definitely pick one up to check out. Like @NewToThis mentioned though, it looks like this is only available as an option on machine bundles.
Yup and a quick Google search shows this to be the case with other resellers. Plus the manufacturer doesn’t sell to the public. My guess is the manufacturer did not anticipate demand and resellers are using it as an option to push their machines. Good to know it’s out there though.
I get marketing emails from openbuilds already so I enteted my email to be notified when in stock. I saw the blerb about orderable with bundles. Will see if it can get separately. I have a Dewalt but mine came with a reducer ring for Makita.
I have two “2.25HP” routers (Bosch and Porter Cable) that have “Electronic Speed Control” but unlike the Dewalt, Makita, and Carbide 3D “1,25HP” routers they don’t have feedback loops (inherent in BLDC routers) to maintain constant speed under varying loads. That’s pretty annoying.
Being Er11 it can run up to 8mm end mills if you buy the stepcraft 8mm collet. It will be a great option for those not wanting the hassle of wiring and programming a spindle but want the Er11 collets. It’s a drop in fit for the stock mount.
Until someone comes out with a plug and play spindle system this will make a lot of people happy.
You don’t need ER-11 to get to an 8mm or 5/16" collet — Elaire has them for the Makita, and they fit the Carbide Compact Router as well:
I bought one (actually, I pre-emptively bought all the sizes (had a 1/8" from the initial production run and later bought a 1/4"), but use a Carbide 3D 1/8" and 1/4") and it works very well — still trying to feel out what are the best 8mm tools, mostly I’ve bought special-purpose ones thus far.
That’s true but Er11 collets and nuts are affordable and plentiful. They also have the benefit of not getting stuck and easily release the end mill without the need to ever have to grab the pliers.
This router I feel is better suited for those making a new CNC purchase and not simply upgrading their current router.
But the $70.00 price difference would need to come down a fair amount to make it competitive as the only difference is the end machining of the taper and thread.
NSK Bearings…the ability to change brushes without disassembly, ER11 Collet with wide range of bits support - 0.020" to 0.3125", 9 foot cord, 10K - 32k RPM… * 65mm Diameter Body.
fwiw… I have learned from your brushless router efforts.
and then I remembered, I already have one of those I put on a router table,
Purchased from a local hardware store, Menards at less than half the price…
added, Menards renames some products for whatever reason, such as the Makita cordless hand tools named as “Workforce”.
That came with ER11 collets and a NSK Bearing?
The precision collets shouldn’t get stuck — anyone who has this difficulty should contact email@example.com
It came with a .25" and a .375" collet.
Unknown on the Bearing Manufacturer as I would need to disassemble it to verify, but I will say this, after quite a bit of use the bearing has zero play in it. Also if you click this link you can read in more detail
looks like a good oversized bearing…the part number on it does come up as NSK
Yeah sorry, but that is not remotely close to the RoutER11. That appears to be just a Makita Clone. The collets look identical to the Makita and definitely are not ER11. As for the bearing, even cheap bearings can have no play in it, that does not mean that it has no runout. Play will certainly add runout, but it is not the only thing.
Imagine you have taken apart a bearing. There is the outer race, the balls, and the inner race. The balls are between the two races. If the balls do not fit snuggle between the two races, that will cause play. Now the hole drilled through the center of the inner race might not be concentric to the outside edge of that inner race (something found on cheaper bearings). Even if there is no play between the balls and the inner race that off axis hole will cause whatever is in that hole (your end mill) to wiggle slightly from side to side. This is runout.
What is the difference, (besides price) as I don’t see it?
willing to learn…
ER11 collets SHOULD be much higher precision (cheap ebay ones are not). They are a standard used on milling equipment so there are a ton of good quality manufactures of them. This is in contrast to the custom high precision collets for Makita / Dewalt routers which I only know of one supplier of.
NSK is a well know manufacturer of quality bearings. It should have very low runout. Low runout means a better surface finish and more consistent chip loads on the tool. This can improve tool life. If the manufacturer of this router is going that route I would also guess that they would be selecting a bearing that is good with both axial and radial loads. Cheaper bearings are almost always standard ball bearings which are really only good in radial loads so plunging into stock puts a ton of stress on them.
The ESC (Electronic Speed Control) being advertised as maintaining constant speed means that even when there is a sudden change in chip load the router will maintain its RPM. Cheap routers will slow down when the load goes up.
Effectively this router is giving you some of the benefits of a higher end spindle at a palm router price.
Buying a new precision collet should not be too difficult, if that is the deciding factor.
the rest can be found in the above pdf link, NSK, ESC, soft start, work light, 12 foot 16 gauge power cord, ferrite coil.
As to the routER11, I wonder why the “custom manufactured” router has a rack gear on the body like most common “palm routers”?
I do agree with you on the one point though, it is not remotely close to the routER11…if you consider price and warranty.
Guess I will leave it at that so that I wont be considered argumentative.
I don’t see anywhere in that PDF mentioning NSK. It does have a ESC though which is good.
Don’t all routers with internal speed controllers (as well as modern external router speed controllers) have electronic (vs. rheostat or transformer) speed control (ESC)? Not all of them can maintain speed under load because they don’t have and use speed sensors. Isn’t that why some (like @DanStory) use(d) SuperPID controllers?