…but with glue!! I figured the vertical holding is such a night mare that I would cut the box ends separately and glue them onto the sides. Here is the set of eight box ends.
Once dry, I will interlock the 4 sides as per usual. The workpiece is 1 inch thick and the tenons 1/2 inch long and 1/4 inch apart.
As I am using a 1/4 inch cutter, it produces these little end parts pretty quickly.
Follow this thread to see if it works!!
Alternately, just hide them in the angles:
Or, if you want to cut a joint by adding a part see:
I am hoping to make the box joints visible rather than for strength purposes. Also, hoping to use standard 1/4 #201 end mill.
For that you can do either dog bones or a radius:
To get accurate workpiece thickness I planned to pocket the whole workpiece. In other words, I create a workpiece of 1.1 inches and then pocket away 0.1 inches. My question is whether I can specify the pocket depth referencing the bottom rather than the top? This way, if my workpiece was 1.2 inches I would still get 1 inch after the pocket is cut.
Here is something I have just started. I threw in some paths to show you.
I pocketed the state down .100. Next path will pocket the words lower .200
This will give me a total depth of .300
First run didn’t work as too much tear out
I changed the cutting order to cross the grain first which fixed the problem
Sides are carved. Just need to see what happens when it’s all glued together
Are you now going to have to glue the long grain of those cut fingers to the end grain of the box sides? That may well be a somewhat weak joint. Looks like the pieces are small enough that differential expansion should be minimal though.
I don’t understand what the fascination is with box or finger joints, but here is an easier example on how to do it (if there is an easier way!)
Example using Tailmaker’s “Tails and Fingers” software
Tailmaker Software Free Downloads
The man is giving his life’s work away.
Yes correct but my feeling is that the strength won’t be an issue because the box base will be slotted in. I may be wrong!
Not easier for me as it doesn’t work on mac or web and doesn’t produce a CC file. Ive never tried going direct to the Shapeoko with gcode as i use the fancy gadgets like bitsetter etc.
At that point why not do a Rabbet Joint?
It’s so simple it’s describes as “The Simple Box”:
I am obsessive about the box-joint corners!
A more typical obsession is to want to hide endgrain — as more than one woodworker has opined:
Endgrain is like a belly button, you know everyone has one, but it’s pretty rare that you want to see one.
To me, this is an interesting example of how we are starved for anything genuine and truly well-made, for quality goods in general, so we fetishize things which exemplify quality, e.g., highly polished brass fittings which once upon a time were allowed to tarnish so as to fade into the background.
If you want to do box joints (or dovetails), it’s pretty simple to just make a vertical fixture:
and then cut traditional joints:
or see:
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