Unfortunately or fortunately depending on how you look at it the top and the bottom of the flag have the exact same dimensions from the cutout.
@Redlander what is the different in a rough and finishing pass on a contour cutout? I don’t believe I am understanding how that process works or what that looks like for a cutout.
Another consideration is Climb vs. Conventional Milling and tooling engagement — where possible avoid slotting and add geometry and cut as a pocket
and/or
and consider leaving a roughing clearance and taking a finishing pass.
Sorry, you’re probably not clear because I was not as well when explaining.
This actually is 2 separate cuts, the roughing pass is an offset pass leaving a small amount of stock for the finish pass. The intent is to minimize bit deflection, especially on smaller diameter bits.
That’s what I figured. Ok so that may be my next course of action. So make a roughing cutout then sneak up onto the dimension I need on the fly. I am going to try that two axis cut thing Will posted too.
Yes, not trying to make the project to take longer. Just trying to changing one step at a time to determine how it affects the outcome. This give you the piece of mind whether or not this was part of your initial issue of final dimensions.
Is there a reason you don’t use a larger diameter bit for the final cutout? This would help deflection issues.
Oh no it’s all good. I did offset the cut to compensate for the missing material and go a perfect cut on this flag. I am going to have to find some scrap or make a scrap piece to attempt the two axis cut Will was saying to do. I had to check those other posts he put up there too.
X (width) offset 0.0940
Y (height) offset 0.0625
Also I did notice on another project with a pocket that it was not cutting to the exact dimension I needed to fit something only on the square/rectangle shapes. The oval/rounded shape I needed came out perfect with the pocket I did for that.
@WillAdams is it possible or accurate to use my previous dimensions and the math equation to input the steps in the MDI since I have the measurements that are offset? Or does it have to be 100% like this and run the entire short axis with a piece and run the long axis?
You can use previous results, but I found that rounding errors were problematic and it was best to use the ideal and the actual measured distance only.
@WillAdams Good Morning, I was trying to verify when running the two cuts for each axis is it two separate cuts of different pieces or am I running both cuts on the same cutout to see any difference? Just trying to make sense of this before I execute, I am a visual guy so seeing it in action is more my cup of tea.
I usually did two cuts per axis — first one to measure, then do the steps/mm calculation, then make the cut again and verify that the math was right.
@WillAdams for my XL should I just cut the X axis the max cutting length I can on the bed or close to it then cut the longest length I can cut on the Y axis for maximum accuracy? Or will a 17.5 cut in the X direction suffice?
On an XL you have to use the shorter axis.
Ok sounds good I am going to give this a shot and see if I can get these stepper motors dialed in a little better. Thank you for the timely response.
@WillAdams I did the X Axis and input the new value for X and it stuck, but my second cut on the x Axis seems to have shorted me that distance on the next test cut I did. I did the equation intended length/actual cutx40 and input that number into my $100. Did I goober something up?
Break…
I think I goobered it up. And mathed backwards 
going to adjust and run again.
Thank you sir. This got me dialed in pretty darn close. My lengths are good and my width is within 0.008 which isn’t too bad for me. Good enough for government work. 
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