you could build your own router table…
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I love this. Would you mind sharing more photos? I’m Especially curious of your Vac “enclosure”. I wonder if an enclosure with dedicated exhaust would be a bright idea. you could make a labyrinth’d exhaust lined with the sound proofing panels if you have the space. Or just a hole with a fan. 
Definitely going to be looking for something like that Sonopan for my enclosure. I couldn’t find a nice 4x8 sheet on USA lowes or HD.
Does anyone know if any of these products will work well as a wireless pendant, and if there’d be a useful way to implement the dials/knobs?
EDIT: follow up question: realistically, how many keys would one need on a pendant?
For the keyboard shortcuts for Carbide Motion see:
https://carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/shortcuts
They are set up to allow a numeric keypad to work.
Not sure how the dials on those are set up, nor how they would interact with the CM shortcuts.
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it looks like these are carbide create shortcuts. I looked around in the mobile site but couldn’t find motion shortcuts. 
are those available?
See:
No problem, first photo is basically how I layered the sound proofing, with the MDF on top of the sonopan. I used 2x2’s to build a frame that everything was attached to, and I have 3 screws holding each side to the frame, so if I ever need to access any of the sides I can do so by removing the 3 screws and taking down the side. To your point about the exhaust, I created a baffle for that reason with MDF and sonopan that I later attached to one of the side panels with 4 L brackets and a piece of ply for it to rest most of the weight on that is attached to the table. I ended up editing the baffle a bit after this photo because I wanted to create less negative pressure after testing the enclosure, so I added two more holes and shortened the length of the baffle dividers. Now when the vac and cnc is running, the doors get slightly pulled in with the negative pressure which I like.
The enclosure for the vac was created with 2x2’s just like the main enclosure. Picture three 2x2 square picture frames screwed together created a “C” shape if seen from above, and then covered in sonopan and drywall. One piece of sonopan is just resting on the top and the rest of the enclosure is left open for air flow. This Festool has air vents on almost all sides so I made the enclosure big enough to give it plenty of space to vent. The sonopan deadens the noise really well, so while it’s a simple enclosure it ended up working really well and shouldn’t kill the vac’s lifespan since the entire room still gets warm from it while the temperature around it stays around 30 degrees at most.
I read sonopan is mostly sold in Canada and it’s the first time I’ve used it, but having used it I’d definitely use it in future home reno’s for sound proofing.
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Tim,
Like your plan and hope you don’t mind if I copy a bit. My shop is in my garage and I still need to get the wife’s car in it so have a unique issue and question about your table.
My plan is to make the table like yours with an open front, but make it a bit higher so I can fit my table saw (on wheels) under it. I expect top of the Shapeoko table will be about 40”.
I’m concerned about the open front though, when moving the table as I’d expect to have to do periodically. I’d prefer to go a bit light with ply like you did. How sturdy is your table when moving it with the Shapeoko on top?
Copy with pride. my table is an imitation of designs all over the internet. The dust sucker attachment is my innovation.
I received my 5 pro 11/24 and have spent the last few days shaking it down and getting to know the machine.
With the amount of weight the machine is slinging around, the table shakes a bit. I may screw a few diagonals to the frame to see if that stiffens it up. I expect I will mount a bracket on the wall so that I can lock the table down when I do not need access to the rear.
Rolling the table around on the 3" pvc casters is pretty easy. But my floor is not yet covered with random cut-offs.
In a couple of days, I’ll complete some in-process projects, and will be able to start assembling the cabinet over the machine.
I am planning a frame similar to the table frame with removable 1/4 ply panels on the sides and top lined with 3/4 foam. The front will have doors hinged at the sides with acrylic or lexan windows. The rear will have doors hinged at the top and bottom (no windows) which will allow me access to the rear for maintenance or to run stock longer than the machine bed.
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Not for long if you put a large CNC under a table like that! Every time you adjust a clamp you’ll be like a swimmer at the starting block.
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An update on my setup! Over the last week or so a few more of my boxes came in, and tonight I just finished building the table and table top. I need to attach it, but it’s 99% ready for the machine. I decided to go with the Kreg table. While a wooden table would possible cost less in the beginning, it would end up costing more in time spent designing, planning, and building. Now my table is done, and my machine should ship next week (hopefully).
I added some foam mats for decoupling and they fit my 70x70” table exactly! Couldn’t be happier about that. Also, I chose the colorful ones because I’m getting a little bored with everything being black or gray.
next is figuring 1) how to put my shop vac under there so it’ll move nicely, and 2) how to put the cyclone under there. With all the hoses it keeps falling over.
EDIT: please forgive the mess. Having just moved, the garage is a disaster, and I don’t have any benches (yet) to unpack my boxes into
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For the past few months I have been doing prototype work at my job using a 80W CO2 laser and my Shapeoko 3. It has been working alright but I kept running into size restrictions. When the Black Friday deals came around my boss decided it was time to spring for a better CNC and got the Shapeoko 5 Pro 4x4. His one stipulation was that it needed to be in a more sound proof enclosure than the one I made for my Shapeoko 3 years ago. So began my new enclosure journey.
Now our machine is not going to ship for a week or two do to Carbide3D’s back log which is fine and I do not want to finalize the enclosure’s design until we have it here. That does not mean though that I cannot get the base put together first:
To start with I put the table on these leveling casters which I am amazed at how well they work:
The ratcheting lever makes raising and lowering them much easier than others I have used before.
The table top is 72" by 72" and is supported by 2x4’s 11" on center. The voids between the “studs” for lack of a better term are filled with Rockwool Safe and Sound insulation. The plywood on the top and bottom of the table top is siliconed down. On top of that will be a layer of EVA foam that the 5 Pro will sit on.
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@DanWorks Is that the 5 Pro? I’m still waiting on mine (Pro 5 2x4) to ship but trying to think ahead while I have time. What is the dimensions of the rolling table you built? What you have is pretty close to what I’m thinking of going with at first. It will all be put together in a way that I can take it apart to modify when needed.
Any lessons learned that you can think of that you could pass along?
I thought I’d post an update on the table I posted on October 22.
I received my machine on 11/25, assembled it, tested it, then started working on the enclosure.
it’s about done now, still have to do a little vacuum plumbing and figure out where to put the computer (maybe on a stand attached to one corner). I am not trying for silent here. I want to manage dust and take the edge off the noise.
- The exterior dimensions of the box are 66" wide x 46.5 deep x 40" tall on a 34" table. That puts the bottom of the header across the front doors at 71" above the floor, 1" above my head.
- The cabinet is framed with 3/4" birch plywood, similar to the table construction.
- I hung 1/4" ply on the frame to make the sides and top. The green stuff is 3/4" insulating foam glued to the 1/4 ply to absorb sound and dampen vibration. The sides are screwed on and can be removed if necessary.
- The front doors are plywood framing with .093" acrylic panes. Yes, polycarbonate would be better. There is a 1/2" inch gap between the bottom of the doors and the 2" sill (right at machine table height). Air will be drawn in through that gap, across the table, and down through the table into the dust collection system (see my october 22 pictures above)
- The rear has doors as well. The bottom 6" swing down in case I ever want to put long stock through the machine. The upper panel is hinged at the top, allowing me to swing it up for access to the rear.
- The hose from the roof to the sweepy will either tie into the dust collection or the shop vac. Experiments upcoming.
I had a couple of spare 4’ LED shop lights, so they went into the box too.
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Nice setup! A rear door is a great idea for tiling material!
I love this design. I plan to make a small passthrough door as well.
Did you use normal foam-board insulation for sound deadening?
Well, “Billy” is here, and assembled as of last night! I was planning on doing my initializing and setup today, but I got a ping that my VFD would be delivered today, so I’ll set that up and do first tests tomorrow! Very excited!
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I used Kingspan Insulation R-3.75, 0.75-in x 4-ft x 8-ft Unfaced Foam Board Insulation from Lowes. The pink Owens-Corning stuff would work the same, but my local Lowes is much closer than Home Depot.
I wanted a hard surface on the insulation so that dust would be easy to brush off.
I do like your foam squares. I’ll see how much vibration I get through the table, then maybe do similar.
I’m in limbo right now waiting for a replacement VFD spindle adaptor cable from C3D. The first replacement got lost in US mail. The 2nd attempt is on a 5 day (fedex tracking estimate) wander from Moline, IL to Detroit, MI via FedEx 2Day. That’s a 6 hour drive for normal people.
I think I’ll put a trim router on the machine for a few days. I have gcode written for a John Clark cube, a simple 6 sided 3D job in cad, and an inlay project in planning.
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I’m waiting on my 4x2 to be delivered and have been building my enclosure in the meantime. One of the questions I have for those that already have them is, how long is the cables for the controller to the machine? I want to make sure that I have a good mounting point for it that won’t stretch the cables too far but also allows good access to it as needed. And in a lot of pictures I’ve looked at, it seems that the controller is on the right side of the machine, but I see a lot of VFD controllers on the left sides. While I would like to co-locate everything, I’m guessing there is a reason for the VFD to be in a different spot?
Thanks for any input you all might have.
I just assembled my 4x4 machine. The wiring harness has about 36" between the back right corner of the machine to the connectors. I am assuming that is the same for the 4x2.
As for the VFD the reason that people have it on the other side is because the drag chain for the spindle / router cord terminates at the back left of the machine.