Now that you are up and running you may need to Tram the spoil board. Tram is squaring the router to the spoil board. I have a Whiteside 6210 1" 3 Wing cutter to flatten the spoil board. The Whiteside technical support recommends 100 IPM and 15,000 rpm. You just draw your spoil board in Carbide Create and create a toolpath to pocket the area. I cut at .015 depth and let it run. You can put pencil squiggles on the spoil board to see if you have any shallow spots. if you do then you can rezero and rerun the same gcode. In the install guide you square and level the Shapeoko but MDF is heavy and there is no support under the middle of the factory spoil board. I had the front left corner of my spoil board still not level after the first run and the second run fixed it. The MDF spoil board makes a tremendous amount dust so wear a dusk mask if you do not have dust collection. Also I have a spoil board on top of my factory spoil board. I got plans from Myers Woodshop on Youtube to make my supplemental spoil board with fences and clamps. I made the spoil board out of 3/4" MDF, got 5/16" Tee nuts from Amazon and made the cam clamps out of Red Oak. Check it out in the gallery " Spoil Board, Clamps and Fences for XXL" Myers Woodshop has free files or you can purchase them at his Etsy.com store. Happy CNCing!