Just got my SP5 online little over a week ago, loving this thing WAY more than what I was expecting, after multiple videos and research and trial and error finally I think I got my head around a good method to a successful inlay. Here is my first try at it.
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Share your successful method.
I have tried some maple / walnut pairings and have not gotten what I hope for so far. The inner piece in my case has some pretty small details but even a less complicated test left some small gaps here or there along the edges. I was using a 60 degree but but have bought a 3 degree based on some recommendations here. I haven’t had a chance to repeat the tests yet due to a couple of other projects.
I am curious as to your bits and whether you are using the inlay mode and what thickness and depths.
I have the Pro XXL but would expect similar results for this type of operation.
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and complete!!
i ran my wall toolpath too fast and it came out like poo on the first op, but second op wall finishes are 9/10 imo.
and the level of difference on the flip machining marks is so miniscule. im very happy with how these turned out.
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Ok, so I started by following this video, step by step, and I watched multiple times, and I mean ( MANY times) How to Make an Inlay Cutting Board with Carbide Create|How to Make a Cutting Board - YouTube and I don’t know where I missed the boat on his instructions, but my pocket and the plug would not fit together at all. After looking around some more, I found this guy, Easy Inlays with Carbide Create -- MIND BLOWN! - YouTube that also does a step by step and the thing that I found helpful was making an outline on the inside of the plug so basically your plug end up being couple mm smaller than the pocket.
When It comes down to the Bids, I used 1/8 for the small details and 60degree v-cut.
This is the short story of how I got to this point. I follow all the settings on video one, and used the little trick of creating the outline from video 2. hope this helps.
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I haven’t had a chance to watch the videos yet, but from you description it sounds like you are not using the new inlay mode in CC?
For the inlay mode see:
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SWEET!!! I will give it a try tonight!!! Thank you…
I got a new tool. I spend a lot of time sanding for projects and as you probably know, dead flat is a good thing especially with bigger panels, etc.
This beauty saves me a ton of time sanding and can handle panels up to 32". I bought it as a luxury, but it’s quickly become a necessity!
Example of a 16 x 22 panel carved out for a tray. If you’ve seen my earlier posts, you saw the Cowboys tray. This will be a Raiders for a buddy.
So much quicker sanding and eliminating glue lines with the drum sander.
Also very happy with my first bowl bit experiments! Got this unit of the AMZ: https://a.co/d/cxzL73c
Impressed with the quality/cost.
Props to Andy Bird Builds at you tube SUPER Smooth Finish With ZERO Sanding! CNC Tutorial - YouTube for a really good tutorial for bowl bits. I get super smooth results with very little sanding!
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Can you please share what tutorial you used? I need to find one.
Tried the stl import for the first time after upgrading to CC Pro on this key hanger I’m making for my daughter. Needed a lot of cleanup even with the 1/32 round nose but overall I’m pleased. Will paint and attach the 3D printed hooks/streetlights.
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Hopefully there are enough clamps here:
(current project, there are seven pieces clamped up there, and two more which need to be added, plus two piece of hardware, then I need to cut and put together eight more pieces with eight hinges)
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Today is when I start remodeling my kitchen. These are good old oak cabinets that were painted over a couple of years ago, and while this now looks outdated, I’m not one to throw away good solid wood to replace it with ikea-grade cabinets. So I figured I would “just” sand everything, remodel the doors to a more modern look, reusing everything as much as I can.
A surfacing pass revealed very nice wood under the cheap paint,
And I then used a 45° vbit to mill away the old-school rounded thingies (not sure what the word is for the parts that are all around between the stile and the recessed panel)
The 45° chamfers on all edges give the door the more modern look I was after, and milling everything on the CNC produces a clean sharp door that looks as new. Success so far.
Now to do the same of the other 19 (!) doors/drawers, without messing a single time in a toolpath or zeroing or anything, since I only have one shot at this. Stressful!
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The central part is usually known as a “panel” and the left and right are stiles, and top/bottom are rails, and the decorative element which was removed with a chamfer a framing bead (framing edge is used for a similar treatment along the edges).
Nice Arts and Craft detail with the square pin/tenon! Have you considered getting a bit of ebony and drilling and mounting a decorative element there?
What finish will you be applying? Is fuming or ebonizing an option?
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Don’t worry if you mess something up it is not that hard to make a replacement. Just have fun doing it.
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Thanks for clarifying the lingo.
After consulting with the Chief Decorator, she said she does not want the visible wood grain look, so back to my initial plan of applying a filler and then a colored resin (for easy cleaning and for durability)
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Find someone with a similar kitchen done in maple and swap? It’d be a lot easier.
Removing visible grain from oak verges on mission impossible/Task of Sisyphus.
The best thing about wood grain in a kitchen is it hides fingerprints.
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We have probably 26 cabinet doors and 14 drawers plus the matching fridge panels in I think maple with a glazed type finish. My chief decorator has wanted something done to modernize for years but I have a real hard time with the idea of painting over that beautiful wood. There is a ton of crown and intricate dentil molding on it though so anything else would require a ridiculous amount of sanding or a pretty significant re-do of portions. Thus far I have been successful at procrastinating.
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Yeh, this makes me sad to cover up that beautiful grain. 
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Maybe we just have to wait 20 years for it to be back in style.
As a home renovator, I have dismantled/rebuilt many kitchens - even a few re-facings. If there was one thing I wish I had been able to do with some of those old kitchens, it would have been to have saved the solid wood cabinet doors for future CNC project stock material.
I would never wish the task of refinishing cabinet doors on anyone - the tedium is mind numbing & the results can be too little gain for effort/time spent. Part of a successful kitchen reno is re-designing the space for how you would like it to be instead of putting up with how it is.
I believe the only time I successfully refinished a few doors, I used a chemical gel product to soften the old finish so it would easily scrape off for the most part.
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