What did you cut on your Shapeoko/ Nomad today?

That is “Cutting Edge”.

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HEY REY: The plaque is nice.
And you could use the excess piece cut to maybe be a family photo frame.
Nice work!

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Richlite cuts from today

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Wow! I like those hinges!

The detail inside the frog looks really clean, what bit did you use ?

It’s 1/4" 2-flute 15° vbit. Combine this with depth-limited vcarving (advanced v-carving in CC) and you end up with a vcarve with almost vertical walls, that looks like it’s a regular pocketing cut but with more details/sharp corners than a regular endmill allows.

Same bit as for the elephant, I posted details here

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Another Christmas Tree ornament. This one was a two sided project on .025" gold anodized aluminum. Engraving done with the 120 degree MC Etcher and cut out with a 1/8" straight two flute endmill.

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Looks amazing. I’m definitely going to try some of my own designs on a material like this. Very classy looking.

Definitely the “biggest” thing I’ve ever cut by some dimension. (Cat scratch-toy for a cat named Enoch)




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Richlite and epoxy, making stuff for nephew and niece (he likes Among Us, she likes “all cute baby animals”, so I figured baby panda it is!)

Still need to add the transparent epoxy coat finish

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You give me “Cat Scratch Fever”.

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Roof finial for a client. I considered trying to make it out of sheet metal as it was done originally (last photo)… but the Shapeoko kept whispering in my ear

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A couple things I’ve cut over the past few weeks…


A sign for a retired police officer. It was left plain as he wants to paint it and add his own personal touch.


A board for an upcoming wedding

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I did a test run for v carving an inlay
Stopped halfway through as I was happy with result

Question: I’ll be using maybe maple and walnut, over time as they are two different woods will one shrink faster than the other one thus leaving gaps ?

Yes and mostly no**

If I was building a table top attached to a rigid frame, I would attach it in a way to allow for the ~1/8” total change across the width (assuming long side was with the grain and short side was cross grain) of a 36” table.

If there were two different woods with slightly different rates of expansion/contraction, one might take up 9/64” and the other 7/64” (for that same total 1/8” change) Would the 1/64 difference between the two across a 36” width be noticeable to someone sitting at the head of the table? Probably.

Across a 18” charcuterie board, it would be more like 1/128”. Hard to see and would be felt with fingers across the seam.

On a 4” coaster? Unnoticeable.

On a 36” sign on a wall instead of table end? unnoticeable.

** I might be worried if I was going across the grain but still probably not. Worst case of female (pocket) piece being face grain and male (inlay) piece being end grain, I might worry about the different directions of expansion and contractions pushing against the v edges causing the inlay to pop out of the pocket by that same 1/128” (for and 18” length.) If that was to happen, it would be more noticeable than a seam. Then again, coaster, serving board, table, or wall sign use all change how someone may or may not see it.

If glued properly no. Glue bond is stronger than wood.

Ed great work man would like to pick your brain I am in Rio Ranch. What Cam set up are you using Im looking to go into Fusion do you have any experience with it?

Hi Jose, good to see a local guy here.

All my CAM work is done with CC Pro. The knife box’s started out as a photo of the actual knife, imported to CC pro, traced with the new tracing tool then cleaned up a bit with node editing. Various measurements of the handle and blade were taken and Pro made the model.

My aluminum “baptism by fire”, so to speak:

This was prompted by my need to install the Makita router in a higher position than the normal clamping position. I found that it was jamming against the Z-axis motor mount on the Z-Plus, so I decided to make a spacer.

The wood prototype was a breeze. The aluminum on the other hand was an order of magnitude more difficult and gave me some appreciation of what you guys go through who do large parts in metal. I want to share that, in case anyone had the slightest bit of uncertainty, no, you can’t use a downcut endmill on aluminum (I tried as my 1/8" single flute was too short to reach until I made a 1.5" platform to bring the part up to the router).

I made mine 3.7 mm thick, but probably 1.5-2 mm thick is all you need, if you have access to thinner stock than the 1/4" aluminum I used. The 12 mm long M5 bolts I bought had a 3.7 mm length difference compared to the stock ones, so 3.7 mm seemed like a good safe thickness to attempt.

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Wait, you mean C3D wouldn’t fix a problem like this under warranty? I find that hard to believe.