Thanks, I’m lucky to have started with good artwork, that didn’t need much editing. It’s a four-pour build, starting with white, let it harden, then carved the purple, then yellow, and finally black. 24 hours between carves, unless you speed things up with heat.
I lucked out with the wood, just grabbed some pieces off the shelf at the store, and it worked out well.
Edit: Biting my nails hard during this shot: ( I had to go another layer deeper too)
This is not as powerful as the inline blower that is meant to run in the line. I just dropped in the hole I made and the hose is picking up the air off the floor, all for $40 total. Your suggestion would not work for me.
It took longer than just today. A gift for a friend. Last fall they had a few special bottles at his daughter’s wedding. He was so busy being a good Father of the Bride that he missed out. When I got my hands on a bottle I knew what must be done. It started as a single rough sawn 5/4 maple board I picked up at a moving sale a couple of years ago. Everything too large for my planer so the Whiteside flattening bit to the rescue to get 3/4" boards from the twisted and cupped rough cuts. The design is based on Vectric’s Paradise box with completely different dimensions and carvings. My 3D printer is feeling left out only the Shapeoko and Ortur Laser got to contribute. My first experience with Rubio monocoat pure, also the first chance I’ve had to use the Groovee Jenny 60 degree downcut V bit, Both were enjoyable to use.
These are still work in progress but pretty much sums up my weekend…
Need to pickup my hardware for the coat rack hooks and add a clear coat but almost there. The cube texture turned out better then expected and the effect of the light shinning on it is pretty nice.
One of my favourite tipples. My brother lives near the distillery - have you been to one of the annual FÈIS ÌLE?
You may want to consider tagging the distillery on your creation on social media to see if there is a market for your box.
I made a tray from the can that the bottles are sold in. I couldnt get the tin very flat so I made the tray reversible so it had one flat practical/udeful side.
Very good. I’ve had a go at making a Mancala game in Walnut and Olive (I love Walnut, the Olive smetl good bt tricky making it without burn marks as it is quite oilly. It worked OK but I left myself a bit of sanding to do in the hollows to remove the machine marks. What modelling and CAM software did you use?
@AndyP for most projects including these in the picture I mainly use Fusion 360 for my CAD/CAM software. However these projects are easy enough to make from sketches in Fusion. If I’m going to be making something more organic/sculpted looking then I’ll fall back on using Blender and import the meshes/3D models back into Fusion 360 for the CAM part…
I’ve not worked with olive wood yet but I’ll have to remember the comment about it being fairly oily and not attempt torching it as I experimented yesterday. From your comment I’m picturing it catching fire and not easily extinguishing itself. For this one the top was completely charred and then I used a wire brush to clean the surface and finished with a quick sanding to expose the high spots and reveal the natural wood again.
Very nice, I’ve been thinking of making some memento boxes with the outer walls carved as you did. Curious how deep you went with the engravings with the 60deg Groovy Jenny and did you make multiple passes or single pass?
I have not made it to Scotland yet. It is on my bucket list though. I have been on a few Irish distillery tours/tastings. At this point I’m try to keep this a hobby. I travel too much for the day job to be able to keep a production schedule. Perhaps if I ever get to retire I may dabble in selling items to fund the hobby.
Interesting idea with the tin. It seems a shame to just recycle such a nice package. I found the paint/lacquer scratches very easily, maybe under glass to help with the flattening and protect the finish.
I had the bit set for .25" depth of cut and the carving was .17" deep. It may have been 1 pass but with the V-carve paths it always seems like is does more. There were also 3 clearing tools 1/4, 1/8 and 1/16 endmills to minimize the V-carve time as much as possible. This maple was hard and had denser sections that would change the loading. I will likely reduce the depth of cut to make 2 passes when I carve in the other boards from this tree.
I’m using Vcarve Pro, the rest machining is as simple as adding tools and it will let you know if something won’t fit. I usually see what the estimated time difference is rest with 1, 2, or 3 clearing tools. No extra geometries required for Vcarving. Contours are the same as in CC, to not cut full engagement slots use an offset and pocket rather than contour.
Thanks, several people including me have asked for the ability to define multiple clearing bits in CC (or even CC Pro) but we have not heard anything back on that yet.
Note in particular the gold and maroon panels which have a very detailed design. Someone asked how I did that. (Big Smile) “My Shapeko Pro did it with just a bit of guidance from me!” It rotates counter clockwise and also plays music. I had no idea what I was getting into when I started designing and building it. Not accepting orders.