Thanks Guy, I had never seen an extension fence like that. Pretty neat. I’ve just been using my prior one and I made/printed my own dust right-boot which does the work. I really only use a router like this to clean up edges and round overs, maybe on occasion a short/quick dado. Still finding my way. 
family key hanger:
back:
no finish yet.
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Adirondack chair with maple back, modified from an otherwise perfect plan from DIY Adirondack Chair Plans DWG Format for a CNC Milling Machine. 2 Connection Versions Screws or Festool Domino Foot Stool - Etsy
I know a maple leaf back cut from oak is a break in style. But the oak itself looks really great I think
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lamps from different materials:
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Dont know if you are Canadian or just love maple trees. Nice work.
O Canada!
Our home and native land!
True patriot love in all of us command.
With glowing hearts we see thee rise,
The True North strong and free!
From far and wide,
O Canada, we stand on guard for thee.
God keep our land glorious and free!
O Canada, we stand on guard for thee.
O Canada, we stand on guard for thee.
I like your chandelier. It is self locking or did you glue it together? Is it made of plywood or solid wood?
Tell us how you designed and cut it out.
I am not Canadian, love the poem though 
!
I am German, live in North New York, few miles north the first Maple Leaf Flags wave.
Plywood, and acrylic, all glued. The files can be gotten from sites like this:
How did you cut the outermost shape of the clear acrylic? The Cross is easy enough, but the heart…
For the treble clef /heart award, I started with an svg of the shape. I imported it into CC, and figured out the size I wanted based on the stock I had. Then I exported that svg, and opened it in lightburn, where I figured out offsets and how much room I had for engraving. I added the message and my logo, and flipped the design so I was engraving on the back. I cut the shape with my CO2 laser. The acrylic covers the entire back of the wood shape, plus extends down into the base so it looks like the shape is floating. There’s no complex shapes on the plastic, so it could be cut on the cnc with a 1/8 bit and some double sided tape. Once I had the shapes done, I used 3M double sided tape to stick it to the back of the wood.
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I’m brand new to wood-working, but come from the 3D printing world, so, I’m familiar with Fusion 360, GCode and modeling in general. I wanted to make a nice jewelry box. I went to my nearby wood store and found a piece of wood that was a nice purple color and thought “the perfect wood for my first real project”.
OMG. Purple Heart.
Yes, I broke end mills. Yes I have a bazillion splinters. Yes, I now have buckets full of purple heart sawdust/chips…
Yes, I learned a LOT. =)
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Here’s my first “real” project with my Shapeoko 5 Pro using Fusion 360 to model and generate tool paths:
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Depending on where you display this, you might get a surprise on how much this wood changes color; even to a dingy looking greyish color! 
I made 3 of these as gifts. And yea, I’ve heard that they fade in color. I suspect they’ll be placed indoors in bedrooms, but who knows.
Nice font! Did you get that look by engraving the contour of the letter, or is it a special font? How many times did you go over each letter?
Thanks!
The font is a version of Warren Chappell’s Trajanus typeface which I’ve been working on for a very long while now. The initial plan was to make a version of each hot metal size, but got stalled out by the need to interpolate the many characters which I did not have a sample for. The current plan is to instead find (or write) a nice interface for METAFONT/METAPOST and create the design thus (ideally as a METAFONT).
The engraving was done as a No Offset Contour in a single pass to a depth of 0.25mm
(don’t have the font installed on this computer)
For an old, classic example of this font in use, see the Ballantine Books versions of JRR Tolkien’s books:
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That is totally awesome!
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