What did you cut on your Shapeoko/ Nomad today?

Great job and very practical approach with your Shapeoko! The floor is incredible. Unique and a perfect fit!

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Beautiful, Awesome job. The transition looks great.

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Awesome work Julien. A labour of love!

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The flooring is very cool and a great idea but what really stands out to me are the simple things like the pegs in all the door frames. Very nice job on everything.

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what did you settle on for the new finish?

wasnt organized enough to post in the gifts challenge but made a couple cool gifts this year I’m quite happy with.

First is a 24" x 24" walnut wall sign for a friends online business. It was a fun challenge incorporating different levels with v bits and a background texture.



Second was some brass milling, I made a ice cube press thing for clear ice for a secret santa who really enjoyed mixed drinks.
IMG_8615 (1)
the brass block is just at room temperature, but the thermal mass just rips through the ice and imprints the pattern into the block.
(also clear ice is easily made in the freezer in a cooler with the lid off, which allows for directional freezing, no fancy gimmicks required)

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How did you finish that sign?

three coats of transparent (and matte) protection varnish, the naked oak that was revealed under the ugly original blue paint looked so good that I wanted to leave it as natural as possible (while still being easy to clean)

p.s. fantastic job on that sign, the texture thing is a perfect fit, while it usually comes out a bit weird in most designs.

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Really nice, @Julien! Looks like a tremendous amount of work.
You must be standing on the side of the kitchen with the hex tile with a Carbide3D logo on it?

That’s because MDF now costs what solid oak used to and solid oak costs what a ride on Blue Origin does.

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bit of black stain on the background wiped off quick, and a hardwax oil from Blackforest wood co. Similar alternative is polyx from osmo

Successful testing of mitered joinery methods. I’m hoping I can use this on my next large furniture project to avoid making these cuts on the table saw.

Using Fusion 360, I was able to make mitered joinery two ways.

  1. Flat end mill to make a parallel pass at the slope. This could be used to make any angle.
    Slow.

  2. 90° v-bit using a 3d contour path. Obviously this only works to make 90° corners. But a 60° and 30° bit could open up the possibilities.
    Fast.

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For an alternative option see:

or

or

or

IME, plain miter joints fail over time due to wood movement, even though w/ modern adhesives they are initially incredibly strong.

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That is the world’s strongest pencil cup.

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It was kind of embarrassing when I used clamps to get it together for a dry fit, but then couldn’t get it back apart to glue it up.

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You do realize that’s Grandpa’s job, right?
image

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I recently did this and found it was horribly slow compared to a table saw. There is a benefit if you’re trying to precisely grain match or pattern match the visible side, because you can go just to the bottom without removing anything horizontally, but it would be tedious in a production environment. I spent around 2 hours building the toolpaths and another hour cutting the mitres, where I could cut them on a table saw in minutes.

That sign is beautiful.

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I made my son a cutting board and used the left over piece to make this matching tray for his girlfriend.

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Very nice! What species of wood did you use on this tray?

Hackberry, walnut, and zebra. It is an endgrain board.