I cannot find that original file but it was an advanced vcarve with a 15 degree vee bit and a #122 1/32" flat end mill. I looked and looked but could not find the original file but here is another one that was for the US Army. The Marine one was epoxy filled and the Army one was just painted.
army_)official_logo.c2d (652 KB)
I do too. In the past I’ve made many brackets, wheels, knobs, drawer slides, handles, that sort of stuff for around the house and shop. Sure, I could’ve found most if not all of that stuff online, but where’s the fun in that.
Last month my neighbor, who tinkers with old square body chevy pickups needed a hand full of little mounting brackets. We drew it up over a couple cold ones in his shop. The next day we cut out exactly what he was needing. Stuff like that is a lot of fun.
This was a motor mount for a buddy that was doing an electric conversion for a lawnmower. Made them out of PVC. He did the modeling and gave me the STL files. I made them a good while ago but it fit with the theme of your comment.
I’ve been using my 3D printer in that way - designing and making custom brackets and adapters. The only “practical” thing I’ve made with my CNC was a coffin-shaped coffee table for my son.
I’ve been working on this 3D train design for a while now and finally got it to where I’m happy with how it turned out. One minor adjustment and it will be exactly what I want. I cut it from hard maple so it’s pretty light collored. Just some light sanding to do and then figure out what kind of finish to use.
What is it? I don’t know.
Press fit tests for a 1mm diameter stainless steel dowel in 3mm thick brass.
Seems like the ticket is a 1mm diameter hole, a 0.8mm two flute end mill running an interior contour with 0.05 to 0.06 stock to leave.
0.05 leaves just enough to push through uncomfortably with a finger.
.06 requires pressing in with a press.
I cannot seem to source tight tolerance 12mm brass bar stock. I can get half inch (12.7mm) brass stock no problem though.
A bit of scuffing, cleaning, and super glue leaves me with a bar that only needs ~0.3mm taken off each side. It’s pretty quick to clean it up because we can trade radial for axial depth of cut to some extent.
No need to take tiny 0.2mm step downs when we’re only removing 0.3mm of material.
A quick facing followed by a contour to bring it all to size. Follow it up with a flip and another facing pass should leave you with a squared up piece of material, ready for turning into…I guess warhammer 40k d6’s 
And remember kids, make chips not dust.
Enhance:
Edit, cubes cut to size.
1.5 years ago home with a busted hand I found your videos. After 2 weeks I sold some Amazon stock and bought a 4x4 S5. It’s been a Fun ride and you Sir are an inspiration. My 2 Cents, use Epoxy for the lamination and load that sucker with weight while its curing. This would help with areas such as the line in the head. Or you might try Gorilla Glue as it expands kinda like spray foam. Just a thought from a guy who does a lot of wood surfboards.
Peace Brother!
Jeff Rall
Looks Great Bro! Drivin that train… You know the rest of the song LOL
Ingenuity at it’s Finest! Nice Job
Nomad - upgraded spindle, thanks Carbide 3D! Pretty much all cut on my Nomad. Copper - 16 guage - 1/32nd endmill. The front back and sides were so accurate when they were soldered and polished there are no visible seams. Doors and windows are plique-à-jour cut on Nomad. There are 180 porcelain on copper shingles…needed a sheer for that!. Glass on base was water jet cut but designed in carbide create.
I didn’t know this was a thing and now there is yet another item on the to-do list 
Thank you for the excellent example of just how good this kind of thing can look.
Do you have any specific resources you could share on soldering the panels and Plique-à-jour (another new term for me! I’ve done some enameling but it always had a backer. This is neat application for sure.)
When I get around to trying this I’ll likely go with an overgrown/dilapidated theme, spritz the structure with instant patina and lean into preserved moss with little sticks etc for filigree…mostly to hide the fact that the solder joints will be terrible and and not a single panel will be flat on the first go around 
Q: which airbrush kit do you recommend? Raining if purchasing one…
Been having fun with aluminum composite. 5yr old son is crazy about star wars - so used some panel I had left from another job to cut his new sign. Used #201 1/4 inch (think settings were 1mmDOC 300/1300/18000) but think I could’ve gone all the way through in almost 1 pass… what’s the verdict on the chips? Small hand file used to take off most of the rough bits but may chamfer edges slightly next time.
Also Hockley sign (mdf sample) - I seriously need to work on my finishing skills. Any MDF finishing YouTube tutorials appreciated!
The double sided flower logo sign - cut sample on CNC but couldn’t get details right (company lettering 1/32in pocket just didn’t do it), so outsourced the cut. Proceeded to power coat orange, cut the aluminum composite to scale to use as inside core and sandwiched it all together with old fashion nuts and bolts plus (not in pic) some hanging brackets. Still needs some finishing touches but hoping to hang next week. Fun times.
You have a good eye for composition. The product looks very clean. Nice work
Learn from watching all of you!
Marleen, please describe what are you calling “aluminum composite.”
One trade name for this is “Di-bond” — we use it for panels on the Nomad — it’s a sandwich of aluminum layers above/below an aluminum core.
I have used a similar thing called MaxMetal. One of the local sign shops uses it as a substrate to put printed signs on. Try gave me some scraps to see if I could cut it in shapes for them. Works well and if you just cut through the aluminum layer you expose the plastic surface underneath. Kind of a ColorCore effect but in a more limited range of colors I think. I have only seen it with a black interior.
Yep - seee willand cullens reply. It is fun stuff! You can see the “black” interior that cullen talks about on the Star Wars sign. If i’d gone a little less deep, you could even make it polished aluminum, which would be nice as well.
