You’re THAT good a teacher! The teacher becomes the student.
I like Chinese Checkers…have thought about making a board or two with that design. You might want to try it - since six people can play simultaneously, you can get consistently defeated by FIVE people!
I did this one for my daughter in law’s father. He is a master at cribbage and has taught all the grandkids how to play.
As for me…still don’t know how 
Wow 
. Nicely done 20 chars
I uploaded the crib board to CutRocket today. It’s currently in draft and waiting approval.
I am literally going to do the same thing with my medals for the Hood2Coast relay series. Any gotchas or tips you can provide on doing this? I was planning on doing the same thing with tracing the image. Mine will all be on a monolithic wall hanging though.
The one thing that I am glad I did was with each piece I used a 6x6in piece of mdf to develop each piece. You won’t get it right the first time most likely. Once you do your initial carve you can see where you need to adjust. You will need to get into the node editing to hone in on what you are happy with. Once you are are happy with the test piece, you can go with the wood for the final piece.
Wasn’t sure if I replied in my first post, but I’m also planning on sticking the ribbon behind the medal like you. How did you manage the two sided milling? How much material did you leave between the ribbon pocket and the medal pocket?
The stock was .82-inch-thick beech. The pocket for the ribbon was 0.3" deep. I used the Vectric software and used the option of making it a two-sided project. The medals that I worked with were different thicknesses, so some of the pieces had very little between the two sides. I hope that helps.
Here is something I cut “on” my Shapeoko but not “with” my Shapeoko.
I have mentioned in other posts that ai am working on a set of frames that are 57” square. Each leg is 3” wide. I have been fretting over how to get the miters tight and square. The real pieces to join are Sapele that I paid a local millwork shop to cut so messing them up will cost me time.
I decided to try these table connector bolts. I made a template on my laser for my trim router with bushing to follow. It worked great in tests with flat pieces so I machined some with the real profile in pine and then machined a piece to hold them square while I attached the template and cut.
It turns out that apparently my machine is ever so slightly out of square as when I put the pieces in they wouldn’t quite line up right. I expanded the opening slightly and then used a corner brace to get them lined up to apply the template and then put them back in the jig I machined. I used the trim router and cut the recess and added the bolt.
It’s strong as hell and square. After the initial tightening I saw an alignment issue and was able to loosen and then resolve.
I am not sure any glue will actually be required here. Also makes me think of keeping the pieces separate until delivered to the customer and then constructing on site. If I don’t need glue then it makes finishing before assembly more possible as glue squeeze out won’t be an issue.
I need a better jig to hold it for the cutting. Maybe I will make the recessed slightly oversized and then embed threaded inserts so that I can use crush-it clamps to fine tune.
A couple of weeks ago I built a monster clamp rig that will allow me to tighten all 4 corners at the same time. But this may be a better route and allow me to do just one at a time.
Great fix for the assembly, I was wondering how that project was going.
I’m curious as to why you think the cnc may be slightly out of square vs the 2 45’s cut for your test piece’s?
Good question given that I cut the test pieces with my 20 year old Dewalt Miter saw. I spent a lot of time checking and testing that and when I put them together off the machine they show square using my precision square.
When I use that same square in the recess I cut in the jig I can see that it is slightly off. I will do some more testing though. It’s conceivable that my stock was not perfectly square. I am not sure if that would have resulted in the same behavior.
I use pvc pipe sections in holes I milled in the wasteboard as a fence on the left. That SHOULD be square to machine but I will double check tomorrow.
Somewhat afraid to go down the rabbit hole.
I was just wondering, I have one compound miter saw that only cuts trim. It has a fixed base meaning it does not slide to cut wider material. It’s the only one I find to cut consistent angles. I spent over two hours dilating it in before I even cut anything on it. Frames can be a PITA to get tight miters on.
Seems like you know the joint is tight by use of the square from the miter cut and the jig is slightly off.
Thanks for the info.
This is a non sliding miter saw as well. Hopefully my stock was off or misaligned. I will check it out more.
I will have to remake the jig anyway because the actual sapele stock is 1/32 wider than the 3” I specified to the millwork shop 
I don’t make a lot of mitered corners, but a while back I made a great jig for my tablesaw that works perfectly without any setup - and is super easy to use and make. The miters that I’ve made ever since have been spot-on - kind of automatically. It’s a design that’s been around for a really long time - and it just works.
You need two offcuts of plywood and a hardwood strip.
Take a known 90 (I used the manufactured corner of a piece of plywood that measured exactly 90) and glue and screw it on top of another offcut of plywood like this:
The 90 needs to be perfect (maybe cut it on your Shapeoko!), but the placement doesn’t…just get it as close to a 45 degree angle as you can (you can use a try square to get it into place…but again, if it’s off by a fraction, it’s not going to matter). The tip of the corner needs to extend past the intended end of the bottom board.
Affix the hardwood strip, sized to ride in the miter slot on your tablesaw using techniques that you use to make sleds or any other jig for the tablesaw (I can go into that, if you want)
Then just put the runner into your slot, raise the blade, and cut off the right side of the bottom board and the corner of the top board in one cut. The resulting jig will snug up against the blade like this:
(Note: I put vertical pieces against my 90 so I could cut compound miters…you don’t need that unless you need to stand up moldings)
Now…to use the jig, simply cut the opposite sides of a miter with the piece referenced on opposite sides of the corner of the jig. So, each corner gets one cut on the “A” side and the other half of the miter gets cut on the “B” side.
Cut one side of the miter on A
Since the angle of the corner is exactly 90, the sum of the A and B sides is going to be 90…even if your jig is not perfectly at 45 degrees. They compensate for each other (and any imperfection in your position of the hardwood strip).
If you cut each miter this way, with half cut from each side of the jig - the result is always perfect.
Gary
Yep, built one of these years ago, problem is I can’t alway take my table saw with me as easily as the miter saw! So, I still need a miter saw.
Very cool. I made one on the lathe once. This is really nice…
You should be able to build it for an electric miter saw…I saw some guy who made a whole jig system for his sliding miter saw. You just need a way to affix the jig along the chop line…and have enough space to place a longer board through the back fence.
I have several for my trim miter saw, they travel together when needed. 
I will make one of these for smaller pieces. These boards need to be cut at 57.75” long and are 12’ long now. I guess I can do a strait cut on the miter to get it manageable on the saw but even at 6’ I don’t know if I can get an accurate cut with that much of the board hanging off the edge.
Hmm. I do have one of those fancy expandable roller stands that I rarely use because it is finicky to adjust.
I do believe I am getting a very good 45 on the miter saw but always willing to try something else.
Sadly my day job got in the way and I haven’t had time to go back and do the square test on the CNC.
Finally decided to try an epoxy inlay this week. I bought a $20 hobby epoxy kit at the local hardware store, carved the design in a piece of scrap mahogany and this is how it turned out. A little bit of light sanding will take out the tooling marks. Using my cnc to remove the epoxy was so much easier than using my orbital sander and finish sanding by hand.
