The outer pockets in the aluminum are for zebrafish to swim in. The inner ones are for thermistors. The pockets on the bottom of it are for Peltier heaters. The copper is a heat sink. This is part of a behavioral experiment for temperature gradients and how the zebrafish react. All done on a V1 HDM except the acrylic plate that was laser cut.
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made a record player stand commisioned by a friend as a surprise for her boyfriend. we took a trip to london and paris together last year, so i used the eiffel tower shape as inspiration for the table legs. the table is made from local ash with the top and shelf being from a heartwood piece of ash. i used my shapeoko pro to cut out the legs, pocket the underside of the top for the wood to wood attachment plates, and to cut the holes for the walnut wedges into the mortise and tenon bottom shelf.
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Nice work. You might find it a bit tippy
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nope, not at all. fairly heavy for a small table and typical dimensions for a entryway table converted to throwing a turntable and a bunch of albums on it
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I went to Houston on Wednesday and took 600 albums to my Grandson. They had been in boxes for a few years and he and his wife like vinyl. They have been going through them and playing some. Who knows there might be some million dollar albums in there with mis prints or other one of albums. They were almost all bought when they were new.
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Good for you, Guy! I collected about 50 LP albums from a guy in northern Georgia some years back. He said that “in the old days” his father used to service LP juke boxes in bars, etc. I never heard of that! Most all of the LPs were in good shape, but there were a few troublesome ones like the one produced for the “Palm Beach Band Boys!” 
The stylized cover was like this:
PALM BEACH
BAND BOYSso fun! i love that vinyl is fully back and artists are offering their music on vinyl again. i hope your grandson and his wife found some treasures.
I am glad they went to a good home. The problem is I have an addiction to collecting whole collections of things. Like with tools I love to get all the turning tools even if I dont necessarily need some of the ones I get. It is a bad habit but sometimes it works out. I have a tool I did not think I needed but turned out I did. So that reinforces my habit of buying too much. 
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Finally made a water bath so I could cut abalone veneer. My first time doing it, a charm for the wife’s purse.
Gallery write up with more detail coming soon, though it’s pretty straightforward.
Super satisfying having two custom workholding fixtures work perfectly.
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Another ColorCore project.
My neighborhood wanted a sign to indicate that the pool is closed for swimming but people can still use the deck and pavilion if they want.
I made 1 to attach to the fence.
And then a free standing one for inside since people never pay attention.
I made the frame/legs for that one out of PVC. The curved feed are attached to the uprights with a dovetail. Those slide off to make storing easier when we re-open the pool.
And it was actually all cut and installed today.
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When using plywood you have to figure out the depth of the layers. Then cut to the top of a layer plus a little to get a good area in the recessed areas. Good quality baltic birch should be consistent in the layers but much of the baltic birch is really russian birch which has voids and bad layers under the nice surface. So even with good you might still get 10% rejection due to defects so always make a few more than you need.
So what is the Eagles, local team or the pro Philly team?
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My wife is an elementary principal, going to be part of her Christmas gifts to her teachers. Apollo Eagles. Thanks for the advise
You might consider using a straight end mill and cutting all the way through. It will have a more “airy” feel.
Or if you want to go down a rabbit hole consider doing epoxy.
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@CullenS
Very clean looking project! Thanks for shoeing us.
That cleaned up well, was this just a sand and refinish or did you need to surface with a fly cutter and refinish?
Well, that’s a bunch of teachers stacked up there. Must be a big school.
Thanks, Tim.
Complete resurface & Cut the design from scratch. I used the “Before” picture to get it lined up as close as I could, but the original looked like it was done by hand from a pretty low resolution .jpg so there was no way to get it exact. Or, the sign maybe was the original & the .jpg design was captured from that?? It has also warped a little bit, so I flipped it & flattened the back first, then surfaced the front through the old carving, then masked & cut the new carving.
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I had some plywood I was using for a project. The project was pretty big. Was cutting out a ship design and as the cutter started removing all of the outside material around the ship, a void in the plywood opened up. I thought to stop the machine right then, but changed my mind because I thought that maybe my cut would go deep enough to cut out all of this void. Well, I was wrong. The void continued to grow in size until I found that the void extended a couple of inches up under the ship and caused the wood there to become very flimsy. Kind of a letdown to do so much machining to only see it go to waste because of these plywood imperfections.
The size of my cut out plywood piece was 18 inches by 24 inches and it went to waste. Couldn’t even make a test run work in order to make sure all parts of my design was good before cutting on some hardwoods. I scrapped the idea completely and moved on to something else.
Glad to see your ornaments are coming out nicely. If you used some tape on top of each ornament, you could carve out the material and and then come back and paint the bottom of the carved out area and leaving the top of the ornament untouched. I can’t remember the name of the tape that would be better used. I was looking for the screenshot of it on my phone, but couldn’t find it. But this is an idea if you want to paint the bottoms inside your carved areas.
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