Nakashima-style bowties for a Cherry desk. Modeled in Fusion360, cut the plugs upside down on the Pro with 1º tapered sides, and cut a matching template in plexiglas to cut the mortises with a plunge router and guide bushing, then chisel the corners square.
Related to my previous thread… https://community.carbide3d.com/t/looking-for-a-project-file/97151/8
Here is the result of my prototype flowers roughly based on the ones that Kevin Barnett showed in the 3D Tool - Add Shape video.
I drew up 4 different sizes in CC from 3.5 to 5 inches wide. I still have a few things to figure out like stem shape and how to fasten them to the flowers. Don’t mind the two holes in the top of two of the flowers where I drilled the stem dowel holes too deep… oops
I’ll post the finished project later next week when I have it done.
Luckily with relatively small parts, an enclosure, and a vacuum, there’s not much to smell.
I’d hate to walk into a shop cutting a big chunk of the stuff on a Shapeoko though
I have several huge pieces of zebra wood that I have been hanging on to for many years waiting for the right project. They are 2” thick and 8-10” wide by 10-14’ long.
You’re killing me with that HDU again!! Texture feature is one of those really hidden gems, the possibilities between texture parameters and bits is almost endless. Great job, again.
I was going to do a wenge inlay (like one of my previous posts), but a few factors made that a poor choice - the sharp angles in the ‘t’ and ‘d’, along with wenge’s nature to chip easily. We settled on a black epoxy fill.
This is hard white maple, wasn’t expecting the epoxy to bleed into the grain this much. Lesson learned, will look into ways to prevent this. Although… I do think it adds a little character.
Very cool,
You make it sound so easy ! When you paint the silver, does you stencil match the letters or do you paint the whole area your going to cut out…how do you line up the wolf jaw to keep it blue?
I use Zinsser Universal Sanding Sealer (dewaxed shellac) to seal epoxy and painting projects. By applying the dewaxed shellac you seal the wood fibers that are exposed with the pocket and helps keep the halo effect to a minimum.
I often paint advanced vcarving and apply dewaxed shellac to keep the halo from happening.
Here is an example in pine. The carving exposes the end grain and it will soak up paint.
I like how you modified the “3” Not everyone will get it but those with a music background or knowledge will catch it right away. Nice job! And like Tex says, maybe another sanding will take out the colour bleed.
Even simple Elmers glue will seal the grain in the machined pockets and dry clear, one step that I do not omit on epoxy inlays is sealing them with something prior to the pour.