I found a few “Shooters” the Ramp path.
It turned out to be the Maximum Stay down value of 2" was the issue. This says if there is a link between paths and it’s length is less than the stay down value, just move to it.
I changed the value to 0 and the Shooters went away. Sweet !
I think I had run into this before, but never put enough brain space to the issue.
Another good day. I learned something.
Oh man, it would be cool to laminate construction paper in an earth tone color, like that tan /khaki wood color and green or blue to represent topo elevation lines.
Just talking through it - you’d need a large press for whatever size construction paper you want to use.
You’d have to wet every sheet before layup.
You would need to either use an epoxy with a long pot time for the layup if you wanted it to cold cure.
You could use something like Cactus Juice for unlimited layup time, but would need to heat up the pressed lamination until it cured.
You could use paper phenolic sheet laminates, but the thinnest I found were 0.060",so not good for elevation lines, but might be good to save a lot of time compared to laminating up so many individual sheets of construction paper.
Maybe use 1/8" tan / khaki phenolic sheets with individual sheets of blue or whatever color you want for topo elevation lines between them. Still a fair amount of work, but a lot less than laminating many more construction paper layers by using the paper phenolic sheets.
Just rambling.
I normally don’t have anything I can share but this is not business related yet.
Wife wanted some cubbies to put on the wall in the kitchen.
All half lap joints. Everything modeled in fusion and everything even fit right the first time.
Will get ship lap back
I finally have a decent one to add to this list! Not the fanciest ever, but I’m pretty happy how this is coming out, this is an old piano bench for my sister-in-laws Christmas present who’s going to school to be a music teacher.
I was considering resurfacing it after the carve, But I really like the antique patina that it got naturally, and that newly exposed wood popping out.
Remember, the newly exposed grain will change color over time if not sealed due to oxidation. If you want the “pop” to last longer it will need to be sealed.
Nice project!
My daughter is visiting over the holidays and is an officer in The Turning Point USA organization at UVU and asked if I could make her a wavy flag. I’ve needed an excuse to figure out how to correctly model and create a wavy flag and this gave me the incentive I needed. I’ve since sealed them both in polyurethane with a low level gloss, but these pictures were taken before that. They are made with cheap pine from local big box store.
Doing several full 8’ long tiling jobs today. My mental notes:
A - Baltic Birch is actually a 1/16" or so short of 8’.
B - I need to make my tabs thicker.
Not just Baltic Birch, any sheet good can be up an 1/8” or even 3/16” from the mill. I always check dimensions for which corner is the squarest as well.
Agreed. But most ply I’ve found is oversize… not under. In this case it just means a 1/16" flat spot on a decorative curve. So not an issue in this case. 
Cool idea… In a recent Pask Makes YouTube video where he made a Damascus-blade chisel (basically a showpiece), he made “ivory phenolic” using cream-colored notebook paper and epoxy in a shop-made press box. I hadn’t known there was such a thing as home-made phenolic but he and you have told me different!
This is basically Micarta (brandname for using phenolic resin to glue layers of paper or cloth together).
I finally got around to creating the holder for the Dust Deputy for the StealthSonic based on the files from @ScottsdaleSteve in this post:
I didn’t want to use my good 3/4" plywood and didn’t feel like buying any 1/2" which is what Scott used so I made mine from some 1/3" MDF I had laying around.
I use Vectric Vcarve Pro and had to export the vectors as SVG from CC. Upon loading to Vcarve, I noticed that the size was a bit large. I have done this before but the size is not usually critical but this time it was. I had to scale everything by 93.74485% and that got it really close. I then tweaked the dowel holes slightly. In Steve’s post he said he used 1.25" dowels which I actually had on hand but were too big to fit in the holders on the vac so I bought some 1.125" that worked well.
I was able to get both pieces to fit on a 24x24 square.
With Steve’s permission I have posted the Vectric file if anyone wants.
If you have the same vac/bucket setup the length of the 3 dowels between the rings is 11.25". I can’t remember the length of the others but it isn’t that important.
Steve had the low profile Dust Deputy. I have the regular one so its a rather tall affair but workable. I plan to replace the hose from vac to the cyclone with regular 2.5" hose since the one supplied with the vac is rather unwieldy.
BucketTopper.zip (441.1 KB)
Like on Forged in Fire? Micarta?
TIL
Never heard of “Forged in Fire”.
Wikipedia article on Micarta:
Engraving the logo of a local coffee shop into bamboo cutting boards in anticipation of St. Valentine’s Day using a #312:
After a second pass to clean up:
I appreciate the advice, What do you suggest to seal it with?
Also this is the finished product, finished at 4am
There are numerous products to seal it with. Depends on where it will be located, close to a window with sunlight would require a finish with a UV protector for example. There are experts on here for finishing that will hopefully chime in to help you out. I would use this,
Your photo is backlit and hard to see the detail, a different angle from the open garage door or close the garage door would help. Someone will be real happy with that!
What tool did you use to cut with?
@CullenS I used some rigid plumbing to shorten the slinky hose connection to my cyclone. Your setup would be a great candidate for that.
Yep, thats my plan. Just have to find time to get to Lowes and find the right fittings.
