I made a box for my Wixley Digital Protractor. I have had this for a long time in its plastic package and been using it a lot lately. So I made a case for it.
I used Watco Teak Oil dark walnut to finish it.
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Girlfriend asked for a sign to give to her hair stylist. I didnât ask for contextâŠ
MDF and much more time finishing than cuttingâŠ
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Only her hair dresser knows for sure.
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Cutting board 18 x 12-1/2 x 1-1/2 Maple with 2 strips of purple heart
then inlayed padauk/black walnut for the logo.
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Paint job looks amazingâŠ.Oramask???
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Nope.
V-carve text, chamfer w/ V-bit, groove with ball nose and cut free with 1/4".
3 coats shellac with sanding between.
Spray with Krylon. Sand. Krylon again.
Get out the brushes and acrylic and fill in the text. Use a damp rag and patience to clean off painted surfaces. Takes two coats light color acrylic to cover dark spray paint. Possibly could have done a 3rd.
And finally shoot a couple coats of lacquer.
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Looks great. How are you going to finish it?
I experienced that padouk loses some of itâs red color and turns more red-brown when finished with linseed oil.
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Waiting for glue to dry on another project, decided to experiment with the 2 sided machining features of Vcarve Pro. Found Marc Lindsayâs (spelling?) video so whipped up this for some aging hippie friendsâŠ
MDF, shellac, Krylon, acrylic & lacquer.
VCarveâs machining features take some getting used to vs. Fusion360 which Iâm more accustom to using. Lid has a slight dish, about 1.5mm, enough to feel rather than really see. Vcarve text projected to model surface us a nice feature.
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Mason jar engraved topsâŠI love this idea! Nice job.
Me? I am doing some prototypingâŠfor installing a B̶i̶t̶s̶e̶t̶t̶e̶r̶ Cutter Setter (Ahhh) on a raised (1.56") Metal Cutting Shapeoko 3. After some testing, Rev B will be 3/4" lower.
Just because it looked good on paper, doesnât mean itâll actually workâŠ
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I used walrus oil on it, I think padauk has a tendency to do that but itâs not a big deal for the logo.
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Made a part for a prototype at work. Noodling ideas for an automatic cable lashing machine.
This is part of the upper guide that the little shuttles move around.
It is a student designed project, my group is providing support. They have a limited budget so we are prototyping the first revision with MDF (soaked in shellac). All the gears are 3d printed.
Anyway, they have something to test now.
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UmmâŠvery nice but its a Wixey Protractor not Wixley.
Always wanted one of those to go with my Wixey Digital Angle Gauge. They would go well in a box togetherâŠnow I have to buy the protractor first
Practise is good 
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I had a rusted old hatchet head lying around so I modeled a lofted handle in F360. Thought I had double sided machining licked but it turns out there was a 1mm shift when i did the other side. A TON of sanding, charring and oiling later I have new handle on an axe head thatâs older than I am!
(actually, as wrote this i figured out why my setups shifted when i flipped 
)
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Read once cut twice?
Very nicely done, is it ash?
Yes sir. The handle is stout! Honestly I donât know if I could break this thing if I tried.
Humbled by all the beautiful work you all have shared. Just grinding wood into dust to see what comes out of the pile.
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My wife picked up a small pup table to put on the back porch recently. The table didnât sit quite level so I made a trip to the local big box lumber store for some adjustable feet, I came back empty handed. Deciding I could come up with something quickly I modeled up some round feet in CCPro and added a hex shaped pocket for a bolt head to seat in. WallyWorld had the HDPE in the form of a cutting board and a few minutes on the S3 yielded the feet I needed.
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Nice work. I wouldnât know how to properly fix the head to the handle, do you have suggestions?
And what is actually the âcorrectâ grain orientation for tool handles? I read that for baseball bats, you would hit the ball with the radial face. Is it also true for tool handles?
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