What did you cut on your Shapeoko/ Nomad today?

Beauty ‘tis in the eye of the beholder.

When one screws up as much as I do one becomes appreciative of the things one can accomplish correctly with some degree of regularity.

Note the condition of both layers of blue tape. Ignore the parts, they have a way to go.

End result, not so pretty this side which is the backside of one of four corner inlays.

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Ah the joy of not cutting through the tape, priceless.
(old mishap in the upper left corner of the picture though ? :slight_smile: )

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Must be a 3D clearing cut. But for what I have no idea & await with anticipation…

Yep, remember my comment about mistakes? It’s why I triple check material thickness now.

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I realized I needed more ventilation when working in my small garage. Especially when staining. At my “day-job” we use these down-draft tables when grinding and sanding and this gave me an Idea. So I picked up a 25 gallon hopper at an industrial surplus warehouse. Then used my Pro XXL to router out the top. High-five to the person who came up with the array feature in Carbide Create. saved me a ton of time. Then used some aluminum channels for supports. Next, I will be venting it outside with the assist of a blower.


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Just hook it up to your dust collector for sanding.

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So I’ve had this idea for a while, and finally made one. Making the second one will be better. it’s a 3d wave pattern puzzle.

What you see here are 35 3/4 x 3/4 x 2in pieces. I clamped them together and carved a wave pattern on the ends. Lesson learned: Next time, put double-stick tape between the rows–the original set was 7x7, but some of them were loose in the grid, and they walked up during carving and had to be sacrificed.

I’ve been extremely paranoid about mixing them up during finishing… don’t know how hard/easy it will be.

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MDF bed for my Ortur laser engraver.
Easy 2 sided work.
1/4-20 threaded inserts for extra utility.
Recesses for risers as the 3D printed feet are screwed in place and that allows it to accept thick pieces, or the rotary attachment.
I’ll engrave a grid on it for quick alignment.


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Your tool organizing racks look interesting; did you print them?
Also, if it’s a newer Ortur then what are your thoughts on it?
The promise of higher power and tighter beam appeal.

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I did design/print them. I have one for workholding, one for organizing bolts by length, and one for bits/setting zeros/collets/wrenches. All in a 6"x6" form factor. I’ll release the files once I’m happy with them.

Mine is a couple models back Ortur Laser Master 2. It’s a “20W” model with a single 5W output diode. I bought it barely used from a friend (has a SO4Pro himself) to test the waters. I’m happy with if for the intended purpose of surface engraving.

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Nice! I have and in-line exhaust blower for 4" pipe. It’s rated at 150CFM. I will be venting it out the side of my garage where an exhaust fan was at one time.

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Here is a WSU logo on a wine barrel end. The wine barrel ring diameter has to be shortened by cutting at the seam, shortening, and then welding. In order to do the epoxy all the wood seams needed to be sealed so the epoxy wouldn’t drain. This is going to be an auction item for a school fundraiser.

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Sometimes you cannot see the forest for all the trees. When I first looked at the logo I though that looks like a snail or sea serpent. Then finally I could see the WSU. Dooooh!!

Very nice looking project.

Does using the Shapeoko as a laser count? Used the Jtech 24w to engrave the words for resin fill.

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You cut it and it was on a Shapeoko so I guess it qualifies. Why not?

Looks really good! How deep did you burn the letters?

One pass at 250mm/s and 85% power. Went about 3/16" to 1/8" I didn’t measure.

What font was used for WASHINGTON STATE ?

I used “Grand Adventure Text” here is a link to the font where I think I got it from.

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How deep do you cut for your epoxy inlay?