What did you cut on your Shapeoko/ Nomad today?

I did 0.2 inches. I use Exopoxy dye which goes a long way with a few drops. ALSO, with a wine barrel end, the backside of the end needs 3/4 in plywood round backing measuring to close to the full diameter of the wine barrel end. Screws need to go into ALL the barrel end boards otherwise the barrel end will not be stable over time. If the barrel end board is wide enough use two screws to span the width when going from the plywood to the barrel end. Hope that makes sense and helps.

Thanks, I’ve worked a little with the barrel lids, and they do have a tendency to warp over time.

Hi! I wouldn’t have guessed that was your first time! Well done.

I’m new to this. If you’re amiable, do you mind answering a question? You mention you scanned the bottom of the shoe. Was that with just a regular flatbed scanner? What format preserved the exact dimensions?

48" Diameter Star Wars Aztec Dial. Done in 4.5 hours. :smiley:

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You are telling us that C3D didn’t lie about the size one can cut on that machine? :smiley:

4-1/2 hours! That was rockin’!

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It looks fantastic, but what’s the WAF on a 48" Star Wars Aztec calendar ? :slight_smile:

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hahaha Julien over here asking the right questions.

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I’m out of touch… what does WAF mean? :smiley:

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I’m guessing wife acceptance factor. Not many places mine would let me hang that, first being the garage. :pensive:

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That :slight_smile:
I find myself NOT making a number of projects in anticipation of not being allowed to display them anywhere in the house :slight_smile:

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Ah…I guess I’m not as with it as I suspected. :smiley:

Honestly my wife is a nerd too, but would rather it be Dr Who. It’s also being sold, so not so much my issue. But his wife is also a nerd and is just as likely as him to have wanted it. :slight_smile:

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yes Wife Acceptance Factor is exactly what it stands for. it definitely is a factor in things I make that might be within the house.

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Came out awesome. I see how those threaded inserts really come in handy. Interesting notch in the bottom right, guessing that might be necessary to accomodate the bitsetter when using full 48" width material.

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It was just a flate plate that gets glued to the bottom of the shoe. I used a flat bed scanner and saved the file as a .JPG, then imported it to Inkscape and changed it to an .SVG format. When I imported it, it was slightly larger than the original. I resized it using the scale tool to the original dimension of the plate. I then cut a pocket about 1/16" deep to hold it firmly when I etched it.
Hope this helps you.

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In this case I still used the t-tracks. :slight_smile:

If you were to have to do a full 4x4 square, then you’d have to remove the BitSetter. In my case with the circle not going to the corner, I just notched the material.

Thanks for taking the time to reply!
Good info!

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cutting the acrylic mirrors was a bit fun. makes me want a 24w laser upgrade but the wife says no more toys

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Wow. JWST coolness + another evidence that hexagons are the bestagons!

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OK, we need a JAG (Julien Acronym Glossary)

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That’s the acronym for that new space telescope thingie we just put up.

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