I two finger tighten my spindle after having it replaced by support (They have been amazing to work with.) and the threads are galling again. From day one the threads were not smooth on either of my spindles, I have cleaned the threads and collect with air on every bit change, I brush the spindle threads and nut threads to make sure the air didn’t miss anything once a week when I do my maintenance checks and cleaning. I think the poster in the linked thread is correct the nut gets a bur and it eats the spindle threads because when mine started the gall the second time I found said bur in the nut and once I cleared that out and then did what I could to have the threads on the spindle it was smooth on and off. That said the damage is done so I am looking for options to replace just the threaded part of my spindle as I don’t want to buy a new one if I can avoid it. I see people online really getting after these on how tight they make that collet nut even on the Shapeoko 65 and I simply can’t do that or I will be replacing the spindle again because the nut won’t come off. I used the one hand method and I am down to the two finger method and shallower passes trying to avoid this machine going down before I find a solution. I see mention of a thread file and once I figure out which one I will get that as well but it won’t put metal back so I still need to figure out a repair option. I am open to ideas other than I am over tightening it as I spend what most would consider to much time babying the spindle so I can keep working.
Years ago and by far the best post about what is happening and what has happened to me on my spindle
Can you post some photos of your shaft and nut? I’d agree that it doesn’t sound like over tightening (unless you’re way stronger than you give yourself credit for 
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I’ve only ever seen burrs on the absolute cheapest collet nuts I’ve bought. Always thoroughly inspect and clean your nuts, especially when they first arrive. I only use these low quality nuts and collets for assembly and work holding jigs since a wide range of quality pieces would be cost prohibitive.
As for repairing the threads with a file, I think it depends on the work you do. I’m pretty sure the threads of the shaft and nut are precision surfaces, so your machine might not cut as accurately until you completely replace them. If you’re mainly cutting wood, the level of inaccuracy introduced probably doesn’t matter much 
I’ll be very interested to see how your shaft repair turns out. I expect you won’t be able to find a reasonable method for changing out just the shaft but I’d love to find out otherwise 
Good luck to you!
I have the ER11 65mm spindle that I’ve had for over a year now. I don’t seem to have the issue you do with the spindle/collet nut threads. I use wrenches to tighten the collet nuts.
But I do inspect the shaft/nut threads as well as keep them clean.
@Redlander I had a long post written out in response explaining myself but I erased that as it was starting to sound pointed. I spend allot of time cleaning and maintaining my equipment and I contacted support for best practices to confirm my process. I use the included wrenches and follow all the support guidelines. This is the only machine I had ever had with this this type issue with. Reviewing the forums and Facebook I am far from the only one having this with the Shapeoko spindles. I am happy you are not dealing with this. I truly wish I wasn’t as I really like the rest of this machine and have really enjoyed using it.
I didn’t intend to down play your issue by any means, just a reference point. I do not run a business so there is allot less wear and tear on my equipment as a hobbyist to begin with. I provide the reference to help understand if there is a material source issue with the spindle shafts/collet nuts for example. I know how easy it is to get a bur on fine thread pitch tooling and am very easy on the bit changes. I’m not insinuating that you’re not, this is the only spindle I own but have way too many routers and a Shaper Origin that I am familiar with tooling changes on.
I hope you get this resolved, the fact you bring the issue up allows me to monitor my spindle and for that I appreciate your post.
I am the original poster of this thread/problem. I ended up replacing the collet nut only. I also picked up a deburring tool to clean up the threads on the spindle…but it was so long ago I don’t remember what tool I ended up getting…lol. The spindle threads on mine became worn in a few spots from metal shavings being released from the nut…which then got squished and ground into the threads on the spindle. After cleaning them off, and replacing the nut…everything is running fine now. I am still using the same spindle with the slightly damaged threads. I don’t over tighten when installing bits either…just until snug and that’s it. Occasionally I will have a small moment screwing the nut back on during a tool change…but it’s not terrible. Replacing the threaded shaft on the spindle is MUCH harder and involved than you think.
Its all good, I really appreciate the conversation and discussing options or experiences.
Thank you for the post, I bought a new nut and I have started to tap very gently on the nut/bit to free it and the collet up when I take it back off. Someone suggested it might not be me over tightening it, but it was stuck when taking it off and I forced it when my first one failed. I don’t remember doing that but I am happy to own it and change my ways. I have seen posts about anti seize but I have not tried that. At this time I just keep it clean and check the threads on each bit change by feel.
Usual preface, I’m with PreciseBits so while I try to only post general information take everything I say with the understanding that I have a bias.
Part of the issue with “too tight” is that most people go by the spec of the MAX torque on the LARGEST bore size for their collet. As an example I believe the HDM uses an ER20 collet. So that would be:
- 1.0-1.4mm 16Nm/12ft-lb
- 1.5-6.9mm 32Nm/24ft-lb
- 7.0-13.0mm 80Nm/59ft-lb
But most people will do a quick search and see a torque number for 80Nm/59ft-lb and go with that. Probably won’t check the nut type either which changes it.
On top of that almost all those numbers come from industrial machines and spindles with high quality collets and nuts. I don’t really expect a sub $2k spindle to have the same spec for hardness.
And again these are MAX torque before you risk hurting something. If that much is needed is a whole giant rabbit hole. See here for SOME of it:
Last thing i would say even if following all of the above correctly is that without some kind of lubrication on these they are WAY more likely to do this clean or not.
Story time: In the steel rule market the reseller of the very expensive Italian spindle that most of these machines used recommended using alcohol to clean everything. These are precision ground surfaces that doing so removes all the lubricant and puts water on the bare steel (100% alcohol barely exist… plus water in the air). It did not lead to good results… ISO tool holders would get stuck in the spindles and they were having to have the spindles rebuilt every couple years. That’s on top of VERY short life on the toolholders, collets, and nuts. Once we got them to stop doing that, things improved greatly.
So while you don’t want to get and kind of lube or the like inside the BORE of the collet. The rest of the spindle, collet, and nuts need it for reliable use.
As for if the damaged thread will screw up your setup… It would have to be MASSIVELY screwed up. Basically it would have to be able to overcome the forces from the two tapers (spindle and nut) to pull it off and add runout. Those tapers accuracy and condition along with the collet are the vast majority of where you end up with runout and slip resistance. That said, it may cause your clamping force to be slightly less. As you may have guessed though, that’s probably fine or even preferable.
Hope that’s useful. Let me know if there’s something I can help with.
Thank you for the information. I ordered collet care yesterday after another person said they used it and looking forward to trying that out.
I have considered a tool like this on multiple occasions to stop guessing how tight the nut is and ultimately keep myself in check. The information you posted directly applies to this decision and how to use it.
SFX ER16A Digital Torque ER Nut Wrench High Quality Alloy Steel
No problem.
I won’t go into it too much in a public post as I don’t want to cross marketing lines. But the whole reason ColletCare exist is the story above.
I’d say it’s a good idea to at the very least a way to get a “feel” for different torque levels. I’d have a hard time swallowing that price for a single use tool though. The flip side of that is there’s not a lot out there that can also do mini nuts. Closest I’m aware of is Norbar’s torque wrenches (mechanical click type). The “Pro” series (Link) is what Techniks was selling (Link). They use a 16mm spigot end that Techniks made heads for (Link) and you can get standard heads for (Link). Might be a slightly more multifunction device if you don’t already have a torque wrench. If you do go that way make sure you get one in a good range Nm/ft-lb for your spindle.
How well do those spindle wipers work 
“Real lambskin provides the best cleaning. Use with any type…”
Do you think the lambskin is necessary or could I just put something together with a bit of felt
I know of no one that actually uses them other than for ISO tapers where spinning up the spindle empty isn’t an option (depends on the type). I’ve not really been asking though… Might be a larger market than I’d guess?
Personally don’t like them as I like to be able to “drag” the cleaning implement from top to bottom to remove debris and the like. Can’t do that with those. More or less anything with a taper like that where I’m forced to engage and disengage it “vertically” and clean “rotationally”, I’d worry about leaving behind debris. Where you have air sealed/curtained systems this would be less of an issue though.
In the real world you also have build up of lacquers, cutting fluid, and the like. Going to be a bit harder to clean that with something as soft as lambskin. Again, partial caveat for air seal/curtain.
Thank you for the information. I have torque wrenches so I will look at all options.
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