How detailed does the Shapeoko XXL cut?

Hi everyone, newbie here deciding which machine to buy! I’ve already cut my files on some Roland cnc mills, but I’m interested in buying a Shapeoko router. I’m curious how my files will look before making a purchase, so I’m wondering if anyone could try cutting one for me?

I’m hoping to cut the Vermont ski mountain, Mad River Glenn (with trails) into a wood or foam block that is about 4’’ x 4’’ and ~3 inches tall. I’m thinking a 1/4" ball would be good for the rough cut and a 1/8’’ ball for the finish toolpath.
Here’s the file I’m hoping to see:
test.c2d (222.4 KB)

I’m totally new to all this, so if there is a better place to post this or another way to see how these machines would cut my project before actually purchasing a router, please let me know! Thanks in advance and happy trails!!!

for maximum detail on terrain carves, you should consider a “tapered ball nose endmill”, for example something like https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B015C61XX4
(note that these advertise the RADIUS not the diameter, so do a mental “x2” when comparing)

the taper gives it strength while still having a very fine point.

The 3" tall might be a problem, since you need basically 6 inches and change of clearance if you want to cut really 3" deep. It will also be incredibly hard to find a bit that is that long while being somewhat accurate

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other suggestion for improving quality of output, set the stepover for the finishing pass to approximately 10% of the diameter of the finsihing bit; in the file it appears you ahve it set much higher

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previously I posted some examples of landscape cuts here if you want to see what can be done:

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Hi fenrus,

Thanks for your advice on the drill bit, the wood height, and the stepover. To have a 6 inch verticale block of starting material, I don’t know if that would fit on the Shapeoko xxl, so could you please elaborate on how to work with such a large Z axis on this machine?

For your landscape examples, are any of them cut on a Shapeoko XXL? Also, is have you found a way to get rid of the horizontal lines each pass of the drill bit has left on the wood? I’m hoping to have a pretty smooth finish if I buy the Shapeoko…

Max clearance under the carriage on the Shapeoko 3 is a little less than 4" and that is without a spoil board on top of the base MDF. The Z-axis also does not have as much travel as clearance. I haven’t measured it but I think 3" is about max.

so you get rid of the horizontal marks by reducing the stepover of the bit. 5% to 10% is a reasonable range. 50% with a ball nose bit will leave pretty steep marks.

Also if you go for perfection you can do two finishing passes in carbide create, and you make the 2nd one at 90 degrees

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