I’m seriously looking at purchasing a 5 Pro, but would like some advice on a few things. Is there a place in the community for that kind of stuff? I consider myself a very good woodworking hobbyist, but don’t we all?
Most people on this forum have a Carbide 3D machine, so there will be a decided bias.
So past that legal disclaimer, the forum has an eclectic group of talented, insightful and honest opinions/advice to share. Ask away.
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Always glad to chat up our machines.
We did just have a thread on this:
TLDR version:
Size — get a 2x2 if your projects fit that, 4x2 for boards, 4x4 for sheet goods
Accessories — BitSetter is standard, BitZero is for setting origin relative to rectangular stock or a flat surface or holes in a conductive material (folks who use rough-cut lumber often don’t use it), Sweepy Pro is nice for flatter projects where it can be adjusted to match the stock/part, air blast is good if cutting metal if one is willing to set up a compressor
Spindle — a BitRunner will afford auto on/off w/ a trim router, VFD spindles add speed control and come in two diameters, 65mm which has an ER-16 collet, 80mm which has an ER-20 which allows 1/2" shank tooling but requires a chiller (included) for water cooling
Vacuum — current darling is the DeWalt Stealthsonic, adding a cyclone such as: Mullet Cyclone Dust Collector - Carbide 3D will save a lot on filters/bags, for auto on/off see: Controlling a Vacuum with your Shapeoko
Software — Carbide Create is bundled with the machines and a good starting point, and the principles from it will apply to other software, folks doing 3D mechanical CAD often get: Alibre Workshop CAD/CAM - Carbide 3D
Tooling — the starter kits are usually a good fit
Tools — a set of T-handle metric hex keys is a nicety for assembling, a ratchet even more so, calipers, a square, and a centering rule are often useful, a hand saw to break down stock may be helpful
If you’d let us know what sort of work you wish to do and how you wish to approach it we might be better able to advise.
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Thanks Jim,
I would like to know what advantages come with the 220V spindle over the 110. Is it just being able to plow through material more easily?
I am assuming that there is no way to upgrade from a 2x4 unit to a 4x4, correct?
Is it possible to work on an oversized piece by moving it after finishing one section and still have seamless continuity between the sections?
Is it possible and/or easy to import files of different software and manipulate them for the unit?
I think that covers it for now, please remember I don’t have the vocabulary down well yet, so use small words.
Jay
All good. You are smart enough to ask good questions.
@WillAdams (the master librarian) will fill you in completely.
My 2 cents.
I have a 110v spindle with a er11 collet which max’s out at 8 mm, but mostly use 1/4 bits.
The current 110v spindle ( updated version ) has a er-16 which allows 3/8 bit ( idk mm ) bits.
For me that would be nice, but I haven’t killed my current one yet (2 yrs, maybe awhile).
A 1/2 shank bit would be handy for clearing some big pieces that I do.
The C3D 220v spindle has a cooler included. I have zero experience with this unit.
If I update the spindle, I am not sure which way I would go to be honest.
I have not heard of an upgrade from 2ft to 4 ft. The Y axis transoms are continuous parts, not pieced.
You can slide and continue cutting. It’s called Tiling.
Edit:
Software. The machine will process Gcode from basically anywhere.
2D SVG and DXF files are commonly used by Carbide Create for data. SVG import supports Circles/Arcs, DXF will stroke out the data.
3D STL (binary) can be imported into the Pro version.
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The 220V spindle affords an ER-20 collet system, and more torque/horsepower, so faster material removal rates, and is more easily able to arrive at a given surface finish. The 110V is capable of a similar level of work, just it may force the use of smaller tooling/take longer/more effort to arrive at a given surface finish.
Correct, since all sizes of machines were available at launch, there is no upgrade option (which would require replacing much of the machine.
Yes, this is known as “tiling”:
Carbide Create imports DXF and SVG files as 2D geometry, pixel images may be imported to a background layer for reference/re-drawing, or auto-traced:
Carbide Create Pro adds the ability to import pixel images as height/depth maps, or 3D models as STL files:
For terminology, see:
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Thanks, everybody, really good stuff!
Onto the next question-open loop versus closed loop feedback. I know the 5 pro is open loop and I understand the difference between the two. What I don’t understand is how that might bite you as opposed to having a closed loop feedback system. Might the spindle just go crazy and wreck the workplace since the computer doesn’t know where actually is?
Yep that’s entirely possible if something goes wrong. I’ve only had a handful of failures on my machine and I’ve been using it for 4 years so far. Good setup practices start to come naturally the more you use the machine. Most of the failures I’ve had are generally user error. (Didn’t tighten work holding clamps, didn’t tighten collet and bit walked out, toolpath programming errors, broken bits from hitting screws, etc.) Having a closed loop system would not have helped me on these mistakes. I think it’s more of a nice to have feature than a necessity.
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Thanks Luke! That’s good info.
The Carbide folks have commented on open vs closed as well, essentially saying that the gains just aren’t worth the cost (closed loop would add a significant cost to their machines)
In my opinion, it’s one of those things that are cool and worth knowing about but if you aren’t sure that you absolutely need it it’s probably not worth the extra cost.
I’m in the same boat as Luke, ~all of my mishaps have been my own doing and closed wouldn’t have helped in the majority of them 
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Alright! Good stuff.
How about doing inlays? That’s something I am really interested in working on. Is it a reasonable operation or is it super easy or super hard?
Inlays look to be pretty reasonable. Lots of examples on the forums of new folks making pretty decent inlaid cutting boards and such. Also lots of good tutorials on YouTube, some officially from Carbide 3D.
So, simple enough to make a standard inlay but the rabbit hole goes as deep as you want. I’ve seen some really incredible stuff here and I’ve never heard of a machine be the limiting factor.
It’s mostly down to you and your approach to it. If you’re careful and considered, inlays are pretty straightforward. It’s just really easy to not be careful which lands you in some situations that are fun to recover from (other folks are much better at inlays than I am, I start thinking about something else half way through the process and that’s…less than ideal …for these sorts of multi-step operations )
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(there are additional videos on our channel)
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Thanks, Tyler. I’ll keep all that in mind.
Even with being a lifelong hobbyist woodworker with a mind for problem solving, AND some successful computer design software under my belt (Sketchup, photoshop, etc) I found the initial learning curve for the CNC to be a bit of a struggle. But between the how to videos that Carbide 3d has, the one-on-one half hour sessions that they provided (I still have 2 of my 4 available), and ESPECIALLY this community I worked my way through it and got beyond the initial spike of the hard learning. Now I feel like I can create most anything I really put my mind to and those things I’ve learned are almost second nature now after 5 months of intense focus (with a 50 hour per week “regular” job.)
If you go into it realizing that there will be some harder learning ahead, but persevere, you’ll get it!
This community responds almost immediately with help too. It shocks me at times… I get answers sometimes within seconds (literally)!
Never would I ever hesitate to highly recommend the Pro 5 (my Cnc) and feel very fortunate that I landed on it as my choice of machines.
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IMHO the question whether a stronger spindle is better should be connected to the type of machine.
The cutting speed depends on the power of the machine, sure. But: the more flexible the mechanical construction is the more it bends to resistance (did I say that right? English is not my native language), means the less precise it cuts. That is ok even for large furniture pieces. But some structures do not become round where they should be just because the cutting edge of the router bit pulls the bit and the router towards the stock where it cuts. So that might be due to the stiffness of the frame, or also due to the pulling principle: a belt is less rigid than a ballscrew drive. Also the longer the belt is the more flexible it is.
I think that for me with a Shapeoko Pro XXL (belt drive) a rather not too strong spindle is just about right. I would not be able to justify the expense for a stronger spindle because I simply could not get enough advantage out of it.
IF! (not when, for now I am good with the excellent for me Shapeoko Pro XXL) I upgrade it will to a ballscrew machine, then possibly -not necessarily- with a stronger spindle.
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This is wonderfully expressed by the poem:
https://grg.org/OneHossShay.htm
and a consider when designing machines has been to reasonably balance each aspect of their capabilities against material and manufacturing costs so as to arrive at the best possible value.
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