Since you brought it up…The field isn’t centered on the board?
Hey that’s Visitor and Home sides, the home gets more room. 
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Now if I could just find that black MDF he uses in the US!
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I live in Seattle and source most of my lumber from Crosscut Hardwoods. They are able to special order the black MDF.
I would have gone that route if I hadn’t been given a few sheets of 3/4” MDF for free when I purchased several sheets of plywood for an earlier project.
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Yes, I could have cut the lines in first and then the helmet, which would have gotten rid of that tiny overlap. I could have used a straight bit instead of a v-bit on the lines and left my ordering the same. Or I could have offset the helmet and trimmed those lines so that they didn’t touch the helmet and facemask. Definitely lessons learned.
True, but purposeful, as I’m lasering his name on the bottom right corner.
Hey all of this is about living and learning. Hindsight is always 20/20. Most craftsmen are hyper critical of their own work. Your project looks good and the important thing is you learned some things. Most of what we do is trial and error. You try something and learn how to do it better the next time. Good work.
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There are no uprights in the end zone for handles. How can you tell if the olive was a good flick, or did it go wide.
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I bet the kicker is a real meathead 
Hello my Carbide 3D Family!! It’s been a while since I posted/shared anything & just wanted to post this Wooden American Flag With Liberty Bell that I made recently. As this is just another flag (I know I know yawn 
) this is the first one where I’ve actually taken the time to take some pics of the process most of the way through. I started out putting 2 pieces of stair tread together cause it’s thicker & I (personally) feel like it makes for a nicer/thicker/heavier flag 
so when your done flattening it usually comes out that regular 3/4" (give or take a little) stock. This was all done on the S5 Pro 4x4 & done in carbide create (fabulous machine, software, customer service & even Kevin’s YT videos are pretty good too 
) minus the frame I just ripped a couple of pieces on the table saw & put the 45° on the ends & then spray paint it black as well too. Other than that it’s nothing great, but I just wanted to share!
** Take Care My Carbide 3D Family & keep posting y’all’s projects & progress cause I love reading & seeing all the great work ALL of y’all do & share too. Y’all have ingenuity like I would’ve never even thought was possible & y’all always seem to think outside the box & y’all inspire me to do/better too.
THE CARBIDE 3D FAMILY IS THE BEST CNC FAMILY ON THE FACE OF THE PLANET. I’m honored to be a part of it!
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That flag turned out really nice!!
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2 posts were split to a new topic: Jigs and Fixtures for drilling holes/joinery
Thank You (20 Characters)
Hello Fellow Humans,
I finished my first sign. I see a bunch of needed improvements, including the need to brace it better as we got some movement. You can see it in the emblem being off center and the “ruffle” on one side of the script. It also needs to be bigger for the emblem to work. However, I really like how the Chinese script came out.
I may be cutting too deep too. It’s 10mm and 5-8 might still look good. We got some chip out but this was scrap so it probably wasn’t the best wood.
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That’s a pretty ambitious first sign and a good start!.
You are right, you definitely need to have the stock secured so there isn’t any movement at all.
Reducing the depth per pass may help with the chip out and a low stepover finishing pass should clean up the carve lines on the background.
The depth may be okay and will have a dramatic look to it, but that small text might be an issue considering the detail. Maybe lower just that area with an offset of the text and then carve the text from what remains 
Experiment with individual elements on smaller scrap then apply what works best to the final project. That’s helped me anyway.
Share the final when you have it!
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Hi Rich
Thanks. I managed only becase of the help of William and Brandon from support, and SDGuy on the forum.
I did this with Vcarve. How would I add a finishing pass without hacking the G code?
Also, how would one lower just that area. Set the top height for the English text to something less than the top? So if the full depth is 10mm, set the top height to 5mm?)
Thanks
Kevin
When I need a second pass with a V carve, I just duplicate the toolpath and set the Depth per Pass to be greater than the depth which it will cut to — that results in a full-depth finishing pass/re-run of the toolpath which seems to work well for V carvings.
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Hey folks 
I’m a bit late posting this project. Imgur somehow deleted my post and I’m not sure why. So I reposted it now.
I made this chessboard and pieces for my niece and nephew for Christmas. I actually made three of them as I made small mistakes with each board.
I tried to detail as much of my process as I could on Imgur. The link is here
It is not a perfect square. I had trouble lining up the boards on the second glue up quickly enough before the Titebond 3 set. I ordered their slower setting glue for next time.
I wish I had had time to do a fourth board as I know I can get it right. I stepped away from it. All went well except for the glue ups.
I hope to make a jig for next time to make things easier.
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Very nice job, Jonathan! Like the font you used and insetting the map is a great idea to handle cupping.
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