Eric,
That is very impressive!! Would you post your source files? I’d love to review and learn from them!
Greg
Go Cougs! First thing I programmed into CC was the logo…
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I’m working on a toy boat. Hull dimensions 15" x 5.1" x 2.75, cut from a stacked up 2x6 SPF. I’m a little embarrassed to say that I spend 8 hours on machining so far. Roughing out the top took 4.5 hours in particular. Fusion360 was estimating 2.5 hours for that cut, so I didn’t bother optimizing it too much, but Carbide Motion ended up taking almost twice as long.
Now I have to design and make the cabin / superstructure. I think I’ll copy the cabin from this iceberg / whale watching boat I was on:
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@AndyC This is so totally awesome! I hope you’re able to get a good price when you sell the design specs to C3D! It’s been done before as @Luke might attest to.
Thanks for sharing this!
The word of the day is “Finesse”
The phrase of the day “omg, these tools are so small”
Nomad 3
Drill 0.060"
M2 Threadmillin
6061
Recipes going up on PC soooon
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That’s a pretty good illustration of the precision of the Nomad3…
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That’s amazing… you made that penny 5 inches in diameter! It is so realistic you even have the fingerprints on it life like! 
In all seriousness, I personally can’t imagine cutting with those thread mills! Those threaded holes are very impressive!
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I think that boat hull is off to a good start! Chock up the cut time as a learning lesson.
I DO have a curiosity question though, for you, or someone more experienced than I am, just because I don’t know. Would it be easier / faster to cut this in 1½" layers and then glue them up afterwards?
Quick logo for a friend’s kid
You know you’re getting older when you have to google the name of the mobile video game they like…
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Yeah, I guess it might be strictly speaking “faster” to contour out the center of the top layer prior to the glue up. But you’ll need to model your stock properly in the CAM so it can skip past those areas. Another positive is that you will end up with a core of usable wood left over rather than a pile of chips. But for something like pine where the value is so low and the wear on the tooling is so minimal and machine time is essentially free, I don’t think it is worth the effort.
I’ve seen where people make hulls for large model ships, they’ll cut them in horizontal layers with the hull shape plus some thickness (perhaps some bracing as well), but the core will be mostly removed. But I think in those cases weight reduction is the main concerns. A 3 ft or 4 ft solid hull for example would be quite heavy.
Now go smaller and give Lincoln some piercings or maybe bedazzle his jacket lol.
Even harder challenge is to Cnc a skull hobo penny like this guy does with hand tools for difficulty level set to max.
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There’s a on this sort of thing at:
For being done by hand this is very impressive,
Now do it on a CNC…
absolutely beautiful
Poor Man’s Saunders-inspired fixture plate for hybrid table, first of four pieces.
Cast aluminum tool plate.
Carbide Tool Source thread mill.
Fun stuff!
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I just completed the tabletop for the dressing table that will go with the island unit
which is by far the largest piece I ever built using my Shapeoko (60" wide, from 4 pieces glued together)
This was also the opportunity to discover (duh…) that manually using a roundover bit in a trim router is about 7000x faster and more convenient than doing it on the Shapeoko 
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When you have a hammer, every problem is a nail…
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More cooked flesh (Charcuterie) board madness plus a bonus. Now including a can of “custom” formulated food-safe Board Butter. In custom engraved can, sure to gain collector value (haha).
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Griff’s Goo?..
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