CC Pro 3D Detail with File

[John3 (John DiMarino)]

Hi guys,

I was wondering if somebody could assist me in getting more detail from CC pro. The setup was set to high resolution and material Height was 22mm. Basically I started with creating a border in design. In modeling I imported a JPEG file. I then selected shape to create the stock material from the border. Both the stock and imported JPEG file height where set to 10 MM. In Tool-path I did a 3-D rough and finishing Path using a 102 double fluted bit for both the 3D rough and finishing paths. The results were that it did not provide the detail I was expecting. It seems that the bit did not cut deep enough into the material. Any suggestions in regards to cc or bits to be used will greatly be appreciated. I have attached the cc file for your review.

Thanks

JohnFish 3D.c2d (162.9 KB)

[Julien]

Hi @John3,

There are a few things going on there:
First, that JPEG file you imported does not quite look like a heightmap,

If you were to carve this using CC Pro with enough detail, you would end up with a mostly flat surface (everywhere the image is grey) with little “bumps” (where the white lines are). Is this your intent ? If you want to make this into a 3D carve of a fish, you will need a 3D model that can then be rendered into a greyscale heightmap, it’s a completely different game.

Second, given the dimensions of that piece, a 1/8" endmill is too large. Here’s the representation of a 1/8" endmill (orange circle) compared to the width of the features you are trying to carve:

Lastly, you used the same square endmill (#102) for both roughing and finishing, which cannot work at least not on a detailed model like this: for finishing you will want a cutter that can go in the small spots that the roughing could not do.

Assuming you would get the heightmap part fixed, the best approach for intricate 3D carvings is to use a regular square endmill for roughing only, and then use a tapered endmill with small tip diameter for finishing, it’s just like using a really tiny endmill, but it infinitely more sturdy so you can run it faster, which is required because a finishing pass using a small stepover typically takes a couple of hours.

[John3 (John DiMarino)]

Thanks for your input. I ordered some different size tapered bits. I will start again when they arrive with some grayscale images.

[John3 (John DiMarino)]

I ordered (4) spiral tapered ball-nose bits. I’m not sure how correlate these sizes with the cutter #.
3 17515R0.2538 1/4" ???
3.17515R0538 1/2" ???
D3.17515R0.75 3/4" ???
D3.17515R1.0 1" ???
Also, how do you go about determining which is the best bit to use for the finishing

[fenrus (Arjan van de Ven)]

R0.5 it the one I use a lot. The way you put that one into carbide create is as a 1mm ballnose endmill (so 0.039" in empire units)

R = radius while CC needs diameter, so you need a x2 in there (don’t need to ask me how I know, you can guess )

example of results:

Cutting STL models with Carbide Create Pro (nearly-2021 edition)

It’s been a while since I did the previous version of this tutorial (From STL file to Carbide Create (PRO) [screenshots included]) and the various pieces of software have changed a little so I figured it’s time to do a refresher. Some of the screenshots on the forum look a little tiny, but just click on them and they should become very readable [PXL_20201127_200308347] [PXL_20201127_200343337] Step 1) Finding a good STL file Not all STL files will cut equally well on a CNC; a 3 axis CNC on…

Red Pin Terrain carve

[IMG_20200201_080349] (first I want to plug Easy (or at least straightforward) Terrain Relief Models that post, which is really the do-it-all howto on terrain carving) Ever since I clicked the order button on the Carbide3D shop website for my 3XL, one of the things I’ve wanted to make a terrain cut of the area I live in with a big “you are here” pin. I’m quite pleased with the result, you can even see (if you look in the right light) the house blocks and roads in the neighborhood and the cut…

The three volcanoes of N Oregon and S Washington

This cut took a lot longer than I expected, over 6 hours. But the result is a 8" x 12" landscape with Mt Hood, Mt St Helens and Mt Adams to proper scale in one piece. [IMG_20200419_180700] Mt Hood: [IMG_20200419_180703] Mt St Helens, I like how you can see the blown top / lava flow are [IMG_20200419_180712] Mt Adams: [IMG_20200419_180715] and Mt Adams with Mt St Helens in the distance [IMG_20200419_180716] This was created from an STL file from https://touchterrain.geol.iastate.e…

[John3 (John DiMarino)]

That R0,5 helps as a good start point but when I go to CC and do a tool change I’m presented with 4 cutter # (101, 111, 121 and 202). Which one do I select for the R0.5?
Thanks
John

[fenrus (Arjan van de Ven)]

you need to add a new tool… @WillAdams made a tutorial at Adding tools in CC440 and later

You need to add a Ball nose bit, what I used is in the screenshot below:

[fenrus (Arjan van de Ven)]

(45ipm is VERY conservative… usually I end up running at 60ipm, but I do that with the buttons in carbide motion so that I start slow and then speed up, rather than just start fast)

[John3 (John DiMarino)]

Can I use this New Tool for the other ball-nose that I purchases or do I need to create one tool for each of them. If so, what needs to be changed in the additional tools being defined. One more question why do you refer to this as a 1mm Diameter tool.
Thanks again for your input
John

[fenrus (Arjan van de Ven)]

R=0.5 means 0.5mm radius ===> 1mm diameter

yes each separate diameter needs it’s own tool in the definition, since it has fundamentally a different shape. Carbide Create needs to know this shape in order to calculate the cut paths (which is interesting in mathematical sense but otherwise be glad the computer does it for you… if you are a math kind of guy I can try to explain but if not, won’t bore you with that)

[John3 (John DiMarino)]

Thanks guys no need for the math lesson I’m just happy getting the answers to move forward.
John