Community challenge #17: Maps (closed)

Let’s kick off the 2021 community challenges!

The theme for challenge #17 is: Maps.

World map, country/state map, city map, treasure map, be creative!

Rules for this 17th challenge:

  • submit your entry in this thread:
  • you can post multiple entries if you want.
  • the project must made on a Shapeoko or Nomad.
  • you must include pics of the finished piece
  • you must include the design file
  • tell us about your mistakes, tips and tricks, etc…
  • posting your project to CutRocket will get you a +2 bonus on the vote tally.
  • the handicap system stays, but it was a bit harsh so I’m trying to balance it better by now applying: -1 point for each time you won in the past.

Timeline:

  • Deadline is set to Jan 31st 2021, midnight PST

  • there will then be 7 days for voting.

    • voting will be open to legit community members only, and the jury reserves the right to remove votes from “outsiders”, and will also break any tie.
  • First place: Amana packs114-K, 119, and 115K

  • Second place: Amana packs199K and 115K

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  • Jury’s prize: Amana packs197K and 115K

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Swag on top, as usual!

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Happy mapping and machining!

7 Likes

There are some resources for this at:

https://wiki.shapeoko.com/index.php/Online_resources#Geography

and we’ve added all the state maps (and flags, but Mississippi needs updating) to:

https://launch.carbide3d.com/elements/category/United_States_Outlines

and

https://launch.carbide3d.com/elements/category/U_S__State_Flags

see:

for the updated flag.

Good luck!

2 Likes

Reminds me of a quote from a long ago movie…
“What do you do for a living?” “I make maps.” “Make any money?” “I make maps.”

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My girlfriend was born and raised in Islip on Long Island NY. Her best friend also plays guitar for Billy Joel so I wanted to do something for her to bring both together. The quote is from her Favorite Billy Joel song and the coordinates are the location of the home she was raised in.

Im still getting used to using the bitsetter but so far I love it. I love using epoxy and it completely changed the project in my opinion. Like throwing some rims on a car lol I drew squares around certain areas to be able to use my 1/16th bit and used 1/8 on the rest of the project. Couldn’t be happier with this project.

Uploaded to cutrocket:

Carbide create file:
danielle islip.c2d (1.9 MB)

16 Likes


Made on a Shapeoko XXL with Z+, made a mistake with cutting the small lettering and as it was cutting the first lettering paused and resized the lettering and recut from beginning.

22 Likes

Normandy Beach ELLIS
Here is the .SVG file, all bits are Whiteside, I used .25 EMDC, .125 EMDC and .5 60 degree VBIT for all cuts, the cross field was from a photo I took while at the American cemetery that is right above Normandy Beach, all other images I found on the internet. This was made for one of my military buddies that went with me to Normandy Beach.

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Here is one of my first attempts to make a piece on my Shapeoko XL using both the engraving function and the laser function.

Story: My bother and his neighbor like to play cribbage. My brother’s neighbor spent most of his life in Seattle, WA and moved to Meridian, ID to retire. My bother wanted to gift his neighbor a cribbage board that reflected his neighbor’s journey.

Mistakes:

  1. Tried to drill peg holes too fast and broke my 1/8" endmill. Ended up slowing plunge rate down and paused the drilling a few times to check bit temp.
  2. Tried doing cards and USN designs with router, but could not get the desire details. Ended up going with the laser. Very happy with the outcome using the laser.
  3. At first, all outlines were a single line. This made it hard to see the outlines of all items burned with laser. Ended up having to create an offset and use the laser fill option to get the desired line thickness.

Tips:

  1. When burning state outlines with a laser, recommend making lines as simple as possible. This will help the laser burn quicker (lift up less) and run smoother.
  2. Practice burns/cuts on same wood you plan on using. Originally, I did all my practice on pine. When I went to do my cuts/burns on oak, I had to adjust burn/cut rates.
  3. Had to burn all laser items in one file so I didn’t have to re-zero laser between files.

Tricks:

  1. I am glad I practiced on cheap wood. Otherwise, it would have cost a fortune to practice all my tries on oak.
  2. Make sure you have a section/area planned for both your router zero and laser zero. Someone on this forum or another forum someone suggested using a bullseye. I wish I would have read that suggestion before starting my project.

Cribbage.dxf (3.7 MB)

CutRocket Link


Original 2nd picture was a little blurry. Found a slightly less blurry picture.

13 Likes

Julien,

Hopefully, I uploaded the correct kind of design file. Please let me know if I need to upload a different file.

Thanks,
Dave

1 Like

Hi @dash7510,

Thank you for your entry, nice example of how laser and CNC can work together!
The DXF vector file you attached is fine, but if you would like to submit the CAM file (CC or VCarve/Aspire or whichever software you used) that could be useful for folks to go and check your feeds and speeds.

Cribbage boards are good “torture tests” for CNCs, since as you found out endmills are not good at drilling. I have found the “peck drilling” option in VCarve to be quite useful in that situation.

And I have now read the wikipedia page on cribbage, which I didn’t know existed before buying a Shapeoko :slight_smile:

3 Likes

Thank you for the kind words and the advise. Not sure how to submit the CAM file. If you mean the .crv file (45mb), I tried that but this page/site only lets me upload certain types of files. Would I have to create an account and upload the .crv file to the CutRocket site?

You could either zip the file to make it eligible to upload here, or make an account on CutRocket — that latter would be preferable.

1 Like

Really have to try out that Cribbage game. I never knew it existed, until I came to this forum.
What makes it so popular?

2 Likes

Sorry, this is my first attempt uploading and using this forum. I tried uploading my zipped file to this contest page, but file is too big (zip file is about 9mb). I created an account on CutRocket and tried uploading my .crv file, but that is too big of a file for CutRocket. CutRocket won’t let me upload a zip file for some reason. My unzipped .crv file is about 45mb. Any other ideas would be appreciated.

Yeah sorry for that, the mix of forum upload constraints and CutRocket format limitations does not make things quite as easy as I would like.

Since you already uploaded your vector file (dxf in your post), that’s fine with me to validate the entry here (we won’t have access to your toolpaths which is too bad since this is the interesting part from the learning standpoint, but we have to do with the constraints…)

Now for CutRocket, at this point it only supports Carbide Create .c2d files or Fusion360 links (unless I missed something), so my rule about the bonus point is not fair for folks who use other CAM software. Until I find a better solution, could please create a dummy Carbide Create project, import your DXF, save that, and upload the c2d file to CutRocket? At least it will make the vector design available for people browsing CutRocket.

3 Likes

Thanks. I did as you said and imported the DXF file to Carbide Create then uploaded to CutRocket. I updated the post with a link to the CutRocket file.

1 Like

:+1:
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Very cool. I like the vial for sand too. I visited back in 2019 for the first time and it’s definitely an emotional, humbling place to visit. I made a short video of my day there: https://www.instagram.com/p/ByYqAy2Hs5a/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

1 Like

Ryan, thanks for sharing it brought back a ton of memories from my visit, such a beautiful place and the water was warm, it is hard to imagine the fear and carnage that took place on that day. Thank God for the men that stormed that beach and other places like it throughout the war for without them this world would be a completely different place.

1 Like

Hi All! New to the community forums, a few IG accounts pointed me to this contest. I’ve made a decent amount of maps in the past 6 months and it is slowly becoming “my thing”. Here is a map of Lake Cordry in Indiana that I did as a retirement gift. It is 34"x26" with a custom walnut frame.

TIPS

  1. I usually seal the top surface with poly before carving. After carving it is super easy to stain all the exposed carved areas. A small amount of stain will still soak into the top, but that can be a good thing depending on the look. You can also sand after sanding if you want a more “clean wood” look.
  2. For large maps, split your carve into sections. It will keep you router from going all the way across the map from cut to cut. Resetting Z zero for each section will help if the wood is not completely flat.

Lake Cordry.c2d (1.3 MB)

This was the first map I ever made. I have quite a few videos on my IG @timberfortress if you want to see some of the process and/or other maps. Both tips above were really important for this super detailed map of Middle Earth:
Middle Earth Map

12 Likes

For fun, here is an image of the Middle Earth Map I just finished.

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