How to recreate the border of this sign?

Hi Everyone… first post, please be kind.

I’ve had my Shapeoko XXL for a little while but still feel I am very much a novice. I’ve done some work for friends and have had good success using Carbide Create for basic signs and engraving. My first challenge has arrived. I’ve been given the image of this stall name plate. The barn owner needs another thirty or so but wants them to have the same border. The person that made the originals for him is long gone. I offered to help… get paid for work… all that jazz.

The border is proving difficult to replicate in Carbide Create. I was thinking v-carve it with my 90 degree bit and the simulation looks close. However, the edges in the original are almost more mellon baller like. The vee bit puts in to uniform of an angle.

I’ve ordered a couple ball end mills (#202) to try, but thought I’d try the brain trust here in the forums first.

Ideas? I’ve included my c2d file for a horse named Bubbles.

Thanks for any pointers you all can provide!

bubbles nameplate.c2d (828.5 KB)

You have two options on this:

  • use a ball-nosed endmill with a sufficient radius to cut this (looks like you’d need a 1/2" or larger)
  • model it in 3D using the new Pro modeling features

For the latter I have a tutorial for a similar shape which addresses this sort of thing at:

In CC406 Carbide Create adds the option of 3D features in a new “Pro” license. Currently available as an open beta for testing at: (see: for the initial announcement and consider checking out a beta if available)

To activate the features see:
and — creating an account will allow a free trial. “This trial is fully functional … so you can generate G-Code and try a full project.”
See: Carbide Create Pro - First Look for some more details.

A video tutorial at: Starting with 2.5 d carving and see Vcarve pro wide flutes for a decorative 3D design.

Pricing discussion for the “Pro” license (the base functionality will remain free): Carbide Create Pro- What do you want to see?

Thanks for the quick reply!

I’ll look down the Pro path you mention. That seems like a good long term strategy.

I was also looking at the Amana Tool 45924. It’s 1/2", but they have 3/4" and 1" as well. That seems to fall to the #1 option you mention. Cost of the end mill isn’t so bad compared to potential (and repeatable) business opportunities.

@damionj Welcome!

On your scalloped edge, you’re going to have to do a little math to figure out how to make those corner scallops come out just right. That will be an improvement over the manual routing that the original was done with.

Have you found that exact font? I think I’ve run across it … somewhere.

In my short career with the Shapeoko, I’ve already run across an individual that didn’t like my “improvements” to the sign they wanted duplicated / updated. The improvements were that the sign came out mathematically correct! :smiley:


The font in question was probably done with a router template.

For similar things, see Adobe’s Wood Type series:

@WillAdams There isn’t much there at that link.

My apologies.


There’s a wonderful sample booklet (I have one, since I used to spend way too much money on type) but not sure if it’s available as a PDF.

I had some moments and found these in the list:

These samples kind of indicate where the matching problem will be.

You may have to “roll yer own” font by coming back over a font you find, and put those little “bubbles” on top of them at strategic points to mimic that router font.


I had to buy a larger radius ball nose for a texture I was trying to do a while back. I wasn’t sure of the exact radius I wanted so I end up buying these:

(ditch the bearings) They were easy on the wallet and have held up well.


Just a thought…

But where is the fun in that? :grin::wink:


FOR YOUR FONT - You might try this out.

There is a font on myfonts whatthefont that is very similar, except for some weird lines in the characters. Artists!!!

Navigator Bold

Handtools?! You mean like a caveman? Not to say I don’t have a selection of rasps in various radii… I may have completely forgotten about them. Sometimes five minutes with a rasp is what a project needs.


Wow. That’s a good price for four bits. I’d have to play with how to do overlapping tool paths, then hit it with a rasp for any ridges.

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About the precision… I was thinking about that. I’ll have to go back and see how other name plates look. I only have the one picture. I’ll have to grab photos of all the existing name plates as well.

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try this

I used 1" 90 degree v bitedge (23.8 KB) may be a base to start from

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