Thanks!
The writeup is at:
Didn’t want to make Carbide Create Pro a requirement, and figured that the finger pull could be a place where folks could customize things.
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This can be done on the regular version of Carbide Create?
FANTASTIC!
Yes, I did step-by-step instructions for doing this sort of thing w/ the new version at:
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I made some hangers to go in the hallway between our new oak slat(?) wall.
They are made from some oak leftovers from a earlier benchtop project. I drew it in fusion and placed them offset on the stock to avoid joints in my finished product.
I had to do one more operation to get the required thickness and a radius on top.
I cut a small pocket so I could align the parts parallel to the machine.
For this I used a “deep range” 1/4 ball-end due to the height of the part.
This also prevented my dust boot from performing as well as normally so I had to rig up some scrap wood to catch some chips.
Picture of test fit before I will sand the edges and apply some finishing oil.
They sit perfectly in place, but glue will be used on the final installation.
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Absolutely beautiful would it be possible for you to share this file? i would love to make one for my son and his fiance.
So now do you feel a single form or multi form thread mill is a better fit for the HDM?
First project. Learning basics of how to set up and run Shapeoko4 using dxf files to import to CC6 and learning how to create and improve toolpath files for better results… Other user posts are amazing so I hope to get better!!! 
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I like wooden clocks. The only down side is you have to wind them everyday. To adjust time the longer the pendlum the slower the clock runs and the shorter the faster it runs.
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Different strokes for different folks
-Single profile is more adaptable to different pitches but slower
-Multi form is much faster but can only cut the pitch its made for
If I had 1000 holes to do, Multi for sure. 5 Different sized threads, single wins. On a machine that isn’t as rigid as the HDM, I would stick with a single profile.
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Finished the walnut coffee table today. My first oval table and first curved/carved legs.
Top, legs and mortise & tenon joints done on my HDM. Top cut using a simple tile toolpath.
Of course I would have preferred 100% heartwood but the sapwood highlights are growing on me.
Finish is “several” coats of tung/citrus oil.
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Wow! That looks great! Do you have some more pictures from the process of how you made the legs?
Go up this thread to Jan 18, that’s where I started.
As far as process for the legs, after quite a bit of looking I found an STL of a leg I liked. I imported it into Fusion 360 and spent more time then I’d have liked learning how to reduce the number of triangles in the file and scaling it to a size I liked.
The rest was easy. haha.
Once in Fusion at a size and level of detail I was happy with it was time for toolpaths. Four different setups (one for each side). Only one tool, a 1/4" ballmill for everything but the mortise’s, that was a 1/4" 2 flute, flat.
Each leg blank was a glue up of 3 pieces of walnut each trimmed to exactly 3" each side, very important when you are flipping a project 4 times!
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Nice work! And I like that series as well. Love to see the final casting posted here.
Hi, Matt. Was this in reference to the heart tree? I’m not so great with forum functions, so I’m not sure how to check.
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Yes the heart tree, my son is getting married and looking to make him something with both their names on it.
I had forgotten how much I liked mahogany. Made a gun cabinet for my Dad in high school Industrial Arts out of mahogany; started from raw wood planks to the finished product. It was finished with a look about like your “heart tree.” +1
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Since you made it available, I made two variations using your graphic.
I added a frame to both one raised and one recessed.
If you like I can offer the c2d file as well.
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I’m just going to offer it anyways.
heart tree revised.c2d (425.9 KB)
Same file for both. If you have questions feel free to ask.
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I designed and programmed this custom fixture plate remotely for a good friend using all the skills I’ve learned on my Shapeoko and with the help from forum members over the years. It’s by far the biggest 6061 aluminum job I’ve ever run and was cut on a Tormach 24r on the opposite side of the US.
It made for a few white knuckle face time calls being given control of some ones brand new machine and a $300 slab of aluminum but we hit the right pocket size on the first go so it was a shout out loud moment for me.
Although the Fusion adaptive tool path for some reason mid way down 2 rows stopped acting correctly and transitioned into a traditional pocket cut. If anyone else has had this happen how did you fix it?
So a special thanks to Vince, Griff, SLC jedi, the carbide team, and every forum member who ever answered an inquiry I had.
I’m excited to get my HDM cutting soon to see how far I can take my acquired skills and what new things I’ll learn next.
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