Wasteboard Plans with threads

(Brad) #14

You might not like that Rich didn’t answer the question. And it is annoying sometimes when someone says to just search,but I believe he said it in a nice manner rather than just saying “use search”. I don’t sweat the small stuff.

Since the topic is way off from the OP now I won’t saymuch more but I do wish there was more content with step by step or video on instructions on how to do things (even the simplest). Happy Thanksgiving to all

BoscoBob start building your XL again, its worth it :slight_smile: or give it to me for free :stuck_out_tongue:

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(Allyn Phillips) #15

Maybe just maybe the search engine needs to be better. I’m a CNC beginner and if you don’t nail the lingo exactly you get nothing found. Or how about a “Newbie” section where there is a FAQ page. I didn’t know anything about tensioning the belts and only found out about it because of the email summary I receive periodically. I have yet to successfully navigate Carbide Create, I get awful results, can’t even make a simple sign. The assembly instructions for Shapeoko XXL are terrible, it assumes a LOT! My mind reading skills are not what they use to be. Starting to think I should have saved my money for a much better machine and better (read intuitive) software.

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(William Adams) #16

The official FAQ is here: http://docs.carbide3d.com/category/10-shapeoko-faq

And there’s a community-maintained FAQ here: http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/FAQ

and various troubleshooting pages:

Eventually we’ll update the balance of the wiki with the material from: http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Shapeoko_3

If anyone wants to pitch in, just ask for an account on the wiki from the other forum of the group wikiadmins.

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#17

I was an early purchaser of the XXL, but about the time I finished building it out, life came along and got in my way of using it (life happens). As a result, while I have remained subscribed to the forum updates, I haven’t been on here in months.

What brought me here this morning? Sniping. One of the things I really liked on here when I was active was how nice folks were. I’m not saying that no one ever chafed, but even then folks generally made nice on the heels of it.

My grandmother always told me that if I didn’t have anything nice to say, I shouldn’t say anything at all. I think most of us have asked a question about a topic that had been previously covered. Sometimes it is an oversight or failed attempts at finding the information, sometimes past posts missed some nuance we needed.

If you must proffer the “search the forum” response, it would be a nice gesture to do so by posting a link to the previous material. Often it is as easy to answer the question as it is to fuss about the re-post.

Well, I’ll hush now. I look forward to becoming active with my machine and the forum in coming months. In the meantime I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving, and will have a happy holiday season.

There is a great group of talented folks here with much to share. I profoundly hope we can all (myself included) remember to play nice and reap the benefit of this pool of knowledge and helpful people.

Warm regards to all.

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(mark robinson) #18

@The_Researcher, Hey Wayne im not sure if you have seen this but (buhmiller)Todd Buhmiller) posted this awhile back and was able to get the threads done in carbide create SO3: Success in drilling holes for threaded inserts! …Hope this helps.

Hey BoscoBob KSLE Pilot… Nice to meet you,Is there somthing that you still needed help with on your build? Id love to help and i know for a fact there is others here that would aswell.Just let me know :slight_smile:

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(Apollo Crowe) #19

@The_Researcher
@markwal
@rwizard
@WillAdams
@RichCournoyer
@BoscoBob

Thank you every one who added to the discussion here.
Its a sign of a growing forum.

How do we keep experienced users engaged while fully supporting our New members?

I will create some Utility files in Carbide Create and work on a CNC Noob section with curated resources specifically for the newest Members.

Until the “Official Getting Started Thread” gets posted, let me ask everyone:

What resource files could be included in a Sticky thread for our Newest Members?

So far I have:
An official Carbide 3D Glossary -

Sample Carbide Create files:
A) Small Clamps
B) Wasteboard Hole Grid (1" spacing)
C) Wasteboard leveling

1 inch Hole grid for Shapeoko Wasteboard using threaded Barrel inserts


Small clamps

S3 Bed Leveling file for Shapeoko Wasteboard

S3 BED LEVEL.c2d (2.9 KB)
S3 GRID 1 inch.c2d (104.9 KB)
4 Clamps.c2d (842.4 KB)

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Leveling entire waste board area
Gcode for tramming a spoilboard
Feeds and Speeds for Tramming
Facing Pass SO3 and Fusion 360 -- bit not making contact with stock
Y axis sloped (issue)
How do you set up surface bit to run in carbide create
Surfacing Supplementary wasteboard
Yet another Shapeoko vs XCarve question... from a guitar maker
Some advise please
Finish passes in a pocket
(Wayne C) #20

Thank you for the link and reply, I did find this web page earlier and i dont like the design for one important reason. If i want to drill through the work piece i will bottom out on the threads that would be a disaster.

I appreciate that there are new files posted in this thread and i have them already this is awesome…

Thank you all… !!!

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(Wayne C) #21

Can i recommend the following.

  1. I bought some end mill bits from a local company. They are the ICARVER 40-9028 set. I want to add them to carbide create however i don’t understand or know what the proper inputs are.
  2. For a new owner i do not know what bit should be used for my project. I want to do snowflakes for my first project and i don’t know what bit i should use. I don’t want to damage or break my machine so i want to do it right. A new user guidance for this would be appreciated.

I tried to upload the c2d files but its larger than the file size limit.

http://www.general.ca/accessories/acc_carving/a_40-928.html

40-917 1/32" RADIUS TIP CONICAL CARVING BIT
41-921 .25" CARBIDE 2 FLUTE UP-CUT SPIRAL
41-922 . 25" CARBIDE 2 FLUTE DOWN-CUT SPIRAL
41-923 .125 " CARBIDE TWO FLUTE UP-CUT SPIRAL
41-924 .125" CARBIDE BALL NOSE 2 FLUTE
41-925 .25" CARBIDE BALL NOSE 2 FLUTE
41-926 CARBIDE TIP V-BIT 90 DEGREE INCL ANGLE
41-927 CARBIDE TIP V-BIT 60 DEGREE INCL ANGLE
41-931 SPACER (7MM X 5/16’’ LONG)

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(Jeff Wimer ) #22

Great idea Apollo. I would include some basic projects to give new users a chance to try out there machines.

I would also include links for calibration and building machines

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(mikep) #23

The good news is that it’s pretty hard to break the machine using the wrong mill. You might break an end mill (or many…one of these days I’ll post my box of broken tools), but it’s pretty hard to actually hurt the machine. You can stall it, you can get the servos to skip, but it’s pretty trivial to recover (turn it off, turn it on, and restart all the software). You can wreck the project, but it’s hard to actually damage the machine.

In general, use a square end mill, up cut, unless you know you need something else. The up cut pulls the chips out of the cut better (but also pulls up on the material some, which is why down-cut exists for special cases). The conical and v-bit tools have special uses. The ball-end tools are generally but not always, for 3d machining. For your snowflakes, almost surely the square tool…assuming these are 2d/2.5d parts.

You want to use the largest tool you can get away with - if you don’t have any details smaller than .25", use the .25" mill. If you have smaller details use the 1/8" tool. There is a speed-n-feed chart here: http://carbide3d.com/docs/support/ … you’re going to need this…maybe not right this second…but you’ll need it eventually.

When you get a little further along, you can look at how to use the .25" for roughing, and the .125" for finish pass (with a tool change). It’s not hard, but if you’re just getting started, it’s one more thing to mess with, so get comfortable first with just one tool.

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(Apollo Crowe) #24

@The_Researcher

Please Post your file that you prefer.

Are you saying you recessed the heads?

Other New members would love to see a picture and your unique approach.

I guess I should add:
THESE FILES ARE FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION ONLY

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(Apollo Crowe) #25

@JeffWimer

Good suggestion for Calibration and I’ll add basic trouble shooting.

I have posted the Carbide Create file for most every project Ive shared, specifically the weekend project series.

What where some of your first projects that built your confidence?

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(Apollo Crowe) #26

@The_Researcher

A screen shot of the Snowflake file will also work if you cant upload the file.
OR a picture of an existing thing so we can see what tool-pathing solution is needed to achieve the effect you want.

Regarding those tools,

You will need to measure the tool dimensions if the Supplier did not include the specs.

Flute Length
Flute count
Over all Length: OAL
Cutting Diameter
Shank Diameter
Taper

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(Jeff Wimer ) #27

A couple of small ones:

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(Wayne C) #28

The snowflakes i am looking to do are in the screenshot. I hope you can see them

Thanks all. This really has grown to be a big discussion :slight_smile:

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(Wayne C) #29

Referring to my question on the bit sizes of the iCarver 40-928 its not anywhere on the web… BUT… I thought out of the box and did the following.
The product is mde by General Canada for the iCarver CNC
They use ArtCAM and I thought if those bits were preset in the software. And guess what they are. As this screen shot shows.

Now all i have to do is add them and i am set for making my first carving tomorrow.

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(John England) #30

@The_Researcher

Cool looking snowflakes! One of your big considerations is going to be dealing with interior corners/radii. You will never be able to get any sharper than the diameter of your cutting tool, so the smaller the diameter of the cutter, the finer the achieved detail. This will also, of course, be contingent on the final size of the snowflake because larger snowflakes will be less effected by rounded interior corners, such as the sharp corners in the triangle circled here:

So, you’re probably going to have the best luck with your .125" two flute up cut bit. Depending on the thickness of the material you’re cutting, you might even be able to get away with using your 1/32" bit, but I recommend you start with the .125" bit for practice first.

Also, just a tip for your order of operations (the order that you cut things), cut out all of the interior patterns, then end with a contour toolpath around the outside to actually cut the snowflakes out.

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(William Adams) #31

You can get a bit more detail on things such as this by running a V-carve engraving pass first — if you use a painted or coloured surface (suggestion: seal w/ lacquer or other clear finish first, then cover w/ a compatible paint) it will almost be as detailed as using a laser cutter.

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(Roger William Crook) #32

I am new to the Shapeoko and what I have done is to use my ruler as spacer and I then used it to mark a line from the centre, then from the front of the board to the back. Then at every cross I drilled for a M6 insert then hey presto all I have got to is to make the hold down clamps.

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(Wayne C) #33

So i want to enter a new End Mill to the toolset and found these details on the endmills.
I want to make sure i go this right so could use some checking by those that have added tools to weigh in… Are these the right settings?

Thank you

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